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Post by Twisted on Feb 15, 2014 15:53:27 GMT -5
If you are doing any electrical debugging like this you REALLY need to get a multimeter. You can buy a dirt cheap one for about $5-10.
Then you want to check several things:
1. The voltage on your batteries. If it is low, the battery is wrecked.
2. Unplug your battery and check the resistance across the terminals on the rifle side of the Deans connectors. Always put the male connector on the rifle, BTW. This keeps the battery from accidentally shorting when unplugged.
With the trigger not pulled, you should see high resistance. If it is low, you have a short. You should also look at the resistance with the trigger pulled. It should be similar to the resistance across the motor terminals when the motor is disconnected. If it is much lower, you have a short on the battery side of the trigger mechanism.
Hope this helps.
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Post by Bishop (Task-Force Nightmare) on Feb 15, 2014 16:08:34 GMT -5
So I charged a 9.6v and used the deans to tamiya connector i had and the motor would even spin outside the grip.
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Post by Twisted on Feb 15, 2014 16:56:29 GMT -5
Were you able to verify the battery and the connector on another gun?
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Post by Bishop (Task-Force Nightmare) on Feb 15, 2014 17:06:40 GMT -5
No. I cut the deans off, soldered tamiyas onto it and it works now. just for some reason i dont have semi auto...
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Post by Twisted on Feb 15, 2014 17:08:50 GMT -5
Sounds like either the Deans plugs were bad, or you soldered them incorrectly. Do you have access to a multimeter? I know I keep harping on that, but it really is the most basic requirement for electrical troubleshooting.
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Post by Bishop (Task-Force Nightmare) on Feb 15, 2014 17:21:26 GMT -5
I dont have one. i dont have money on hand to order one either. ill invest in one soon
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Post by Pagan on Feb 15, 2014 17:26:05 GMT -5
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Post by X on Feb 15, 2014 18:08:42 GMT -5
I actually got that exact multimeter for free one time. If you spent over $30 there they were literally giving them away.
Sent from my XT1080 using proboards
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Post by Twisted on Feb 16, 2014 0:44:13 GMT -5
That's exactly what I'm talking about. $5.49 and it'll read anything you need plus a bunch. I paid you way more than that for your Eotech replica!
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Post by TheEnd on Feb 16, 2014 2:09:28 GMT -5
If you melt a deans connector like that you can screw up the alignment of the tabs. One tab can move over just a hair when the plastic is soft and then stay there when it cools and hardens up. When you plug them together one tab will make contact while the other that moved will not.
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Post by Bishop (Task-Force Nightmare) on Feb 16, 2014 6:40:59 GMT -5
Im pretty sure my trigger contacts melted too. When I looked at them they were black and looked to be shorter. When I pull the trigger I have to pull it all the way back and pretty hard to get it to shoot.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using proboards
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Post by Twisted on Feb 16, 2014 9:15:42 GMT -5
Sounds like shorted motor windings or a short between the motor and trigger.
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Post by Bishop (Task-Force Nightmare) on Feb 16, 2014 15:21:55 GMT -5
So I re wired it to tamiya put it back together. Motor spins fine outside the grip but not when I put it in the gun. What could cause this?
Sent from my SCH-I535 using proboards
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Post by Twisted on Feb 16, 2014 17:23:03 GMT -5
Anti reversal latch, any other in-the-gearbox issue...
Edit:
It could also be a short in the handle that only occurs when the motor is putting pressure on it.
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Outlaw
New Member
SK 32
Posts: 106
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Post by Outlaw on Feb 16, 2014 21:07:20 GMT -5
Check that your long positive (Red) lead, is not being pinched by your motor in the motor grip, this is a problem area for shorts due to improper installation and notoriously inflexible and sometimes brittle wires. Visually check for breaks in the wire insulation (multi-meter would help here) with the grip off of the gun as well. This really now sounds like a wiring issue as you have said your contacts are blackened. Do you feel any torque when motor engages but does not turn inside the grip. Is your motor plate adjustment too tight? Are you blowing fuses/and or have the correct fuse in place? Sorry to beat a dead horse, but multi-meters are our friends, and an analog one can even be gotten at a dollar store for $1.00, digital at Harbor Freight for $5.99. Good luck Bishop I have been there before and know how frustrating wiring can be, and may the electrical Gods smile upon you!
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