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Post by Bishop (Task-Force Nightmare) on Feb 14, 2014 17:13:56 GMT -5
So I just recently re wired all of my lipos to deans. When I plugged them in they were dead. Except one which I charged fully then I connected it to my gun and shot a few times then it died. Rendering my lipos useless. What could have caused this?
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Snarf
New Member
Ambidextrous selector switches are the bane of my existence
Posts: 560
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Post by Snarf on Feb 14, 2014 17:30:18 GMT -5
If you weren't using a low voltage cutoff, then you probably ran your battery until it fully died. Basically, that's not good for lipos and it shortens their lifespan considerably. Look up "lipo 80% rule" for more detailed info.
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Post by Legionnaire on Feb 14, 2014 17:35:58 GMT -5
Did you cut one wire at a time while soldering? If you cut both wires at the same time before soldering on to a new connector you will short your batteries.
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Post by Bishop (Task-Force Nightmare) on Feb 14, 2014 17:44:01 GMT -5
I cut one wire at a time. And I know I shouldn't run lipos until theyre dry but I used 2 of them before that just died and they worked no problem and the one that "survived" I fully charged. I don't get it
EDIT: do you mean cutting both wires at the same time on the gun or the batteries? Because I accidentally cut both of the wires on my gun but not the batteries. Those I did one wire at a time
Second edit: after the Lipo died my trigger clicks every time I pull it, there's no battery in. I googled it and it said something about a cut off lever being semi engaged. When I get my new battery in the mail and plug it in will this problem be fixed? Sent from my SCH-I535 using proboards
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ctres
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Post by ctres on Feb 14, 2014 18:23:49 GMT -5
How to you know that your batteries are the problem? If you are having odd sounds from the trigger then that may be your issue but I would have know way of knowing just by your description. You will probably have to open up the gearbox if the new battery doesn't solve it.
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Post by MayhemXXXFrosty (AndrewMp5k) on Feb 14, 2014 18:27:34 GMT -5
Do you have anything else to test the batteries in? Or access to a Multimeter?
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Post by Bishop (Task-Force Nightmare) on Feb 14, 2014 18:29:01 GMT -5
I know the batteries are the problem because when I plug them into my smart charger it says error won't charge and beeps a lot.
Also why did you link Miami vice the complete series on Amazon?
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Post by MayhemXXXFrosty (AndrewMp5k) on Feb 14, 2014 18:39:32 GMT -5
Whoops! Was copying that to facebook for a friend, link is fixed now. If your charger is having problems charging it then I'd suspect them to be the problem. Why they are dead after a simple rewire is beyond me. You didn't accidentally swap the connectors (like + on the - and - on the +) by chance did you? You can also try pulling the motor out and flipping it upside down facing out of the grip and reconnect it so it spins in the air to see if it will turn the motor by itself while not under a load (spring/gears and all that).
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Post by Bishop (Task-Force Nightmare) on Feb 14, 2014 18:53:06 GMT -5
I took out the motor and it didn't cycle with the batteries plugged in. I think its the batteries
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ctres
New Member
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Post by ctres on Feb 14, 2014 19:24:16 GMT -5
The fact that the smart charger rejects the batteries makes it seem as though your batteries may indeed be the issue. How short did you cut the wires on the batteries and what soldering iron did you use? Are the batteries puffed? Check all of your wiring for potential short circuits. Did you notice any heat from the batteries when you pulled the trigger? Do other batteries work in your gun? I guess I wouldn't necessarily recommend trying others in case you have a wiring short and you just end up killing them too. Check the above things before you try other batteries.
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Post by Bishop (Task-Force Nightmare) on Feb 14, 2014 19:30:04 GMT -5
The fact that the smart charger rejects the batteries makes it seem as though your batteries may indeed be the issue. How short did you cut the wires on the batteries and what soldering iron did you use? Are the batteries puffed? Check all of your wiring for potential short circuits. Did you notice any heat from the batteries when you pulled the trigger? Do other batteries work in your gun? I guess I wouldn't necessarily recommend trying others in case you have a wiring short and you just end up killing them too. Check the above things before you try other batteries. The batteries arent puffed. I didnt cut the wires short. I cut it off right at the connector on the battery. When I cut the tamiya connectors off the wires didnt come out of the buffer tube so I added on some what I believe to have been modify silver wire I had laying around onto the wire to make it longer. How would I check for short circuits? I mean when It shot it sounded fine and worked like it would have just it drained really fast. Sent from my SCH-I535 using proboards
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ctres
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Post by ctres on Feb 14, 2014 21:55:54 GMT -5
Alright what soldering iron are you using and how long were you holding it to the wire? If you have a low power iron that can't melt the solder quick enough or a bad technique the wire can just act as a huge heat sink and pull the heat from the tip of the iron. If it were to get very hot there is the possibility of thermal damage to the battery but I doubt that's the problem.
A short is when there is an electrical connection where there should not be. In a simple ciruit like an airsoft gun this means that somewhere in the wiring the positive and negative wires touch, which creates a short between the battery terminals. This is why you never want to touch the two wires on the battery together and hence why you cut them separately. However, if insulation is torn somewhere else in the harness and the two wires touch there, then that is the exact same thing as if the two wires on the battery touched. My recommendation is that you go through all of the wiring in your gun and make absolutely sure there there are NO rips, frays, chaffing, etc anywhere. Rips could even be in separate places but still conduct through the gearbox shell so make sure that if you find any that you wrap them in electrical tape or shrink tube so there is no chance of them making contact with any other metal pieces.
Out of stupidity I once created a short through the motor grip adjustment plate on one of my guns by sanding down the metal plate for better motor fitment. This removed the paint and left bare metal that made a conductive path between the two metal sides of the motor endbell. It worked for a little while before it started behaving funny and then burnt out my fet. Luckily it didn't take my battery with it too.
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Post by X on Feb 14, 2014 22:47:00 GMT -5
Are you sure you didn't wire your battery in reverse? That would cause the clicking sound (anti reversal latch engaging) and your charger would not charge them.
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Post by Bishop (Task-Force Nightmare) on Feb 15, 2014 6:50:07 GMT -5
I made sure that I wired them all in the correct way. When I was using them in my "defective" CTW they worked just fine. I made sure I googled and watched tutorials on how to wire the deans. I have an old soldering iron. It does the job and has never caused any issues but it can take about maybe 45 seconds to a minute (estimated) to heat the solder.
And I don't think adding the silver wire onto my gun would cause problems, would ? I made sure to use heat shrink and electrical tape so that no exposed wires would touch, at the 2 soldering points.
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ctres
New Member
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Post by ctres on Feb 15, 2014 8:22:33 GMT -5
Okay, but there is obviously something wrong with your gun or battery setup. If those batteries worked fine in another gun then your current gun is wrecking them and it is probably a short in the wiring. If you are positive that there is nothing wrong with how you soldered the batteries then it's time to take out the gearbox and look for potential shorts. Also 45 seconds to melt the solder is WAY to long. My iron does it in probably about two seconds with the proper technique. 45 seconds of touching a soldering iron to the wire on a lipo just sounds like a terrible idea. Can you please post a pic of the plug on the battery from the wiring side so we can confirm that each wire is going to the right terminal?
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