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Post by Bishop (Task-Force Nightmare) on Feb 15, 2014 8:29:41 GMT -5
Ill post a pic of the batteries and the guns wiring. After I take the gun down.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using proboards
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Post by Bishop (Task-Force Nightmare) on Feb 15, 2014 9:55:05 GMT -5
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ctres
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Posts: 955
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Post by ctres on Feb 15, 2014 10:22:27 GMT -5
Please tell me that silver wire is insulated. I can't tell from your pic. Also your deans are a total mess. They appear to be soldered in the right places but there is a good chance that your joints are total crap and completely cold since you heated them so long. I would never trust my gun with connectors in that condition.
Also, if that silver wire IS indeed insulated I am still seeing exposed wited where it connects to the red wire.
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Post by Bishop (Task-Force Nightmare) on Feb 15, 2014 10:35:16 GMT -5
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ctres
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Post by ctres on Feb 15, 2014 10:44:51 GMT -5
Oh, okay, so the wire is insulated. You really need to get your wiring situation sorted out in order to tell if your batteries are actually bad. I would recommend getting someone who has experience with soldering to redo your deans connectors and the silver wire you added. I don't normally do tech work for other people but it is something I could do if you can't find someone else.
Also, what charger are you using and are you plugging in the balance plug when you go to charge them? Have you charged these batteries before? Can you confirm the following? 1. The batteries worked in a different gun before you swapped the connectors 2. The batteries worked in a different gun after you swapped the connectors 3. The gun you are working on now worked before you tried swapping the connectors and adding wire
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Post by Bishop (Task-Force Nightmare) on Feb 15, 2014 11:00:04 GMT -5
Oh, okay, so the wire is insulated. You really need to get your wiring situation sorted out in order to tell if your batteries are actually bad. I would recommend getting someone who has experience with soldering to redo your deans connectors and the silver wire you added. I don't normally do tech work for other people but it is something I could do if you can't find someone else. Also, what charger are you using and are you plugging in the balance plug when you go to charge them? Have you charged these batteries before? Can you confirm the following? 1. The batteries worked in a different gun before you swapped the connectors 2. The batteries worked in a different gun after you swapped the connectors 3. The gun you are working on now worked before you tried swapping the connectors and adding wire There is a balance board and I use it. I bought the expensive smart charger on Eliteairsoftbatteries.com 1 they did work when they were small type tamiya connectors in a different gun. 2 they worked with my CTW despite the fact that the CTW is not working. 3 I haven't shot it before switching. My 9.6 was dead and I didnt have a charger to test it with so that why I wired it to deans. Although the mag it came with had bbs in it so I think Evike might have tested it before shipping, but that I'm not positive of. Sent from my SCH-I535 using proboards
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ctres
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Post by ctres on Feb 15, 2014 11:06:17 GMT -5
I guess the only thing I can think of by now is to make sure the wiring is all repaired. I would start with the gun by fixing the deans connector and the added wiring, then test fire with the motor out of the grip using a different battery. If that works then there is an issue with the batteries you soldered. They may be salvageable though if a new connector is put on them and soldered properly. Have you made any other modifications to this gun at all? Is the motor base plate metal? You haven't done any filing on it have you? Is all of the paint intact on the motor base plate? As I mentioned before, that is how I shorted my wiring at one point.
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Post by MayhemXXXFrosty (AndrewMp5k) on Feb 15, 2014 11:37:29 GMT -5
You should really pick up some heat shrink. It's a lot better than electrical tape (in my opinion electrical tape is only for temporary fixes like out on the field and such). I'd pick up a new soldering iron as well, as ctres said, 45s is way too long. It should take you approximately 2-5s per side if that. Heat shrink is pretty cheap for a lot of it. I can't remember offhand if 3mm is the correct size for batteries. I know since I use a lot of it I bought 2-4mm and I believe 3mm is the right size for most battery/gearbox wires. I would have tested the gun with tamiya's before you modified it to deans (always a good idea to test a new gun before you start modifying it). Evike tests most of their stuff, but I know I just RMA'd a tracer unit that powered on yet the censor didn't work to light up the BB's. Also I never liked that silver wire, I always go with 16AWG wire like this.
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ctres
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Post by ctres on Feb 15, 2014 11:55:31 GMT -5
That wire is way overpriced IMO but it will do the trick. If you intend to do it yourself a new soldering iron is in order. Something like the weller 80W with the chisel tip is probably the best bang for your buck. I used to have a cheapo radioshack one that was supposedly 40W but it was total junk and made soldering a pain. I now have a hakko 888D and my soldering jobs are way cleaner, though I have to say they never looked anywhere near as bad as yours so either your iron is making a mess of it or you really need to work on your technique.
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Post by Bishop (Task-Force Nightmare) on Feb 15, 2014 13:25:30 GMT -5
I got a deans to small tamiya connector that ill use for testing to see if my gun works properly. I ordered a new lipo off of Eliteairsoftbatteries that already has deans on it.
ALSO I did manage to get a few shots off before on the Lipo before it died so I know my gun does work
Sent from my SCH-I535 using proboards
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Post by MayhemXXXFrosty (AndrewMp5k) on Feb 15, 2014 13:46:02 GMT -5
I got a deans to small tamiya connector that ill use for testing to see if my gun works properly. I ordered a new lipo off of Eliteairsoftbatteries that already has deans on it. ALSO I did manage to get a few shots off before on the Lipo before it died so I know my gun does work Sent from my SCH-I535 using proboards Right, but if your batteries were fine before the dean/t-plug swaps then you'd probably be able to diagnose it better and know what it was (as in if you were able to get your entire use of your battery off when everything was set up for tamiya's before your batteries started to die/get low enough before you need to charge them like they usually should). Do you have a LVC as well?
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Post by Bishop (Task-Force Nightmare) on Feb 15, 2014 14:43:28 GMT -5
Yeah they were fine, before I converted them. I don't use an LVC but I bought one with the lipo that I just ordered.
Now on semi its making the clicking sound but when i pull the selector plate to full auto it's fine. Do i just need to plug in a battery to cycle it and it will be fine ?
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ctres
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Post by ctres on Feb 15, 2014 14:48:46 GMT -5
I don't know for sure about the clicking sound but I will stand by my recommendation that you need to also ake sure the gun is working before you wreck your next lipo. The fact that you plug in a perfectly working battery, get off a couple shots and then the battery dies makes me think that something in your gun is causing a short. What does your motor grip adjustment plate look like?
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Post by MayhemXXXFrosty (AndrewMp5k) on Feb 15, 2014 15:06:07 GMT -5
I agree with ctres. I would probably get a new soldering gun and clean up your gun connections first(and probably your old battery connections) and get some damn heatshrink . Then I'd go from there before even thinking about anything else, including plugging a new battery in to test it.
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Post by Bishop (Task-Force Nightmare) on Feb 15, 2014 15:14:20 GMT -5
Fixed the trigger click Sent from my SCH-I535 using proboards
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