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Post by Gimpalong on Oct 2, 2012 10:01:27 GMT -5
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Post by Zander on Oct 2, 2012 10:37:01 GMT -5
Depends on the size tubing you have. I use these, they are much more compact (and much lighter) than the first P* connectors that were rated for like 3000 PSI or something stupid. I just swap the male connector between my DG and P*, depending on what I'm running. www.mcmaster.com9414K62 9414K19 5225K604 (need two) |
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Post by Mles on Oct 2, 2012 11:54:30 GMT -5
No, I mean the caps you put on top of those fitting so they don't get dirty and such.
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Post by Gimpalong on Oct 2, 2012 11:58:21 GMT -5
Hmm, I don't use caps on mine, although it would probably be a good idea. I have managed to dump my connectors into the dirt a few times which was a bit disconcerting.
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Post by Zander on Oct 2, 2012 15:36:49 GMT -5
I've never worried about it.
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Post by Mles on Oct 8, 2012 11:41:42 GMT -5
Is it safe to use a 11.1v Lipo 1000mah to power the FCU?
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Post by Gimpalong on Oct 8, 2012 11:48:26 GMT -5
Yes.
The FCU won't be damaged by an 11.1v lipo.
Miles, you obviously already know this, but for those not in the known, a higher voltage battery won't cause any increase in performance or anything like that. The battery simply powers the FCU.
I use a 250 mAh 7.4v lipo to power my FCU.
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Post by Mles on Oct 8, 2012 12:25:02 GMT -5
Alright cool, I am not sure exactly how the FCU works. Do you adjust the settings with trigger pulls?
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Post by Gimpalong on Oct 8, 2012 13:58:25 GMT -5
Nope. The FCU has a small joy-stick type control that you use to move between settings and to increase or decrease the attributes of the setting. Read this: reviews.ampedairsoft.com/polarstar-fcu-basics/The Revision 2 FCU looks a little different than the original FCU, but they function the same. |
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Post by Ike on Oct 21, 2012 23:17:33 GMT -5
Thank you, Gimpalong, for the information you've provided and for answering questions in my absence.
Also, a thank you to Zander for posting the part numbers from McMaster Carr for the fittings. He had PM'd me with them awhile back and I never got around to putting them into the guide.
I'm going to work backwards and just add a few things to what has already been said.
Gimpalong covered the Rev 2 FCU very well, but I'd like to add that the lipo monitoring should only serve as a guideline. Since you aren't plugging the balance port of your battery into the FCU, it can only measure total voltage and divide by the number of cells. You are still in danger of draining individual cells too far.
Master_Oki_Akai, if it's very loud then you just need to mess with your FCU settings a little bit. Polarstars are some of the quietest guns on the field when tuned correctly. Your poppet dwell is probably too high for your BB/barrel length combination. The sound is probably a combination of that and your amplifier.
As for for the poppet dwell: I think that Angus' test was inconclusive because the longest barrel that he bothered to use was 363mm. The Polarstar system really shines at barrel lengths of 550mm+. I believe 650mm is the longest that Prometheus makes, but some companies go all the way up to 850mm. And there's always those who will make their own custom barrels in whatever length they please.
As for changing MIA rules, I'll say this: we (the tech community) have been getting power boosts from heavier rounds for years now. If MIA wants to change the chronograph rules then so be it, but do it for all platforms and not just the Polarstar.
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Master_Oki_Akai
New Member
Minister of Indoctrination
The Urban Medic
Posts: 376
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Post by Master_Oki_Akai on Oct 21, 2012 23:40:14 GMT -5
Thank you for reminding me of this. Actually I was dialing it in at Firestorm 2. The cold probably had a lot to do with it but even adjusting the dwells it stayed pretty consistent at about 440fps using .25s, 350fps using .43s
And using the amplifier I did get several comments on how ridiculously loud it was compare to without it. Mind you the barrel was a tight bore about 200 something mm long (about P90 length). So i do question how much of the results were due to barrel length and the cold weather. Because my results were pretty consistent regardless of my FCU adjustments.
Oh and the cold did make the LCD display act up but holding it my hand for about a minute fixed that.
But i've built a barrel swap set bringing it up to M4/M4+ length so my hope is that it will quiet down and get that boost to about an even 500 on max with .25s and get a tighter grouping.
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Post by Gimpalong on Oct 22, 2012 9:58:23 GMT -5
As for for the poppet dwell: I think that Angus' test was inconclusive because the longest barrel that he bothered to use was 363mm. The Polarstar system really shines at barrel lengths of 550mm+. I believe 650mm is the longest that Prometheus makes, but some companies go all the way up to 850mm. And there's always those who will make their own custom barrels in whatever length they please. As for changing MIA rules, I'll say this: we (the tech community) have been getting power boosts from heavier rounds for years now. If MIA wants to change the chronograph rules then so be it, but do it for all platforms and not just the Polarstar. Ike, I think you're correct about Angus' tests; definitely inconclusive. I think that there has been enough experimentation with non-ORGA barrels to show that poppet dwell does make a difference in how much energy is being applied to the round. A gun that is over-volumned for .20s, but correctly volumned for .40s will chrono at 1.5 joules with .20s at 400fps, but may very well exceed that 1.5 joule maximum limit when the user switches up to .40s due to both general "energy creep" associated with the heavier round as well as an increase associated with an adjusted poppet dwell setting. I think the best solution is to have the P* user chrono with the rounds they will use on the field and then look at the energy output, not the FPS. If the user is chronoing below 1.5 joules (which equates to 400 fps with .20s) with whatever rounds they are using then they should be good to go. Problems start to occur when P* users chrono with .20s at 400 fps (1.5 joules) and then switch up to .40s causing an overall drop in fps, but an increase beyond the 1.5 joule maximum for regular AEGs. Of course, DMRs are a bit different. On a more "this-is-how-I-do-things" note: I don't run my P* at high FPS. The last game I attended I ran it at 350 fps with .20s. Definitely not spectacular in comparison to what P*s can do. I also typically shoot semi-auto only. I also use a regulator lock which gets zipped tied in place when I chrono. I do these things because I love the P* system and want to show event hosts and other players that the system, while new, is safe if used correctly. The last thing I want to see is a P* ban because some knuckle-head brought their P* 550fps full-auto monster onto the field and hurt someone. |
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Post by Ike on Oct 22, 2012 13:43:55 GMT -5
As for for the poppet dwell: I think that Angus' test was inconclusive because the longest barrel that he bothered to use was 363mm. The Polarstar system really shines at barrel lengths of 550mm+. I believe 650mm is the longest that Prometheus makes, but some companies go all the way up to 850mm. And there's always those who will make their own custom barrels in whatever length they please. As for changing MIA rules, I'll say this: we (the tech community) have been getting power boosts from heavier rounds for years now. If MIA wants to change the chronograph rules then so be it, but do it for all platforms and not just the Polarstar. A gun that is over-volumned for .20s, but correctly volumned for .40s will chrono at 1.5 joules with .20s at 400fps, but may very well exceed that 1.5 joule maximum limit when the user switches up to .40s due to both general "energy creep" associated with the heavier round as well as an increase associated with an adjusted poppet dwell setting. I think the best solution is to have the P* user chrono with the rounds they will use on the field and then look at the energy output, not the FPS. If the user is chronoing below 1.5 joules (which equates to 400 fps with .20s) with whatever rounds they are using then they should be good to go. Problems start to occur when P* users chrono with .20s at 400 fps (1.5 joules) and then switch up to .40s causing an overall drop in fps, but an increase beyond the 1.5 joule maximum for regular AEGs. Of course, DMRs are a bit different. . You are correct with your example of a gun shooting a .2g BB at 1.5J but shooting a .4g BB at a higher energy, and I wouldn't oppose your idea of having players chronograph with the BB's that they plan on using on the field.* All I am saying is that if we implement this, that it should apply to ALL players and not just Polarstar users, because this same "power creep" is and has been easy to achieve with AEGs as well. *I will say though, that I think event hosts need to be able to supply the different BB weights for chronographing for this idea to work properly. It would be far too easy for a player to lie about what weight BB they are chronographing with otherwise. Much easier than doing the proper work on an AEG or buying a Polarstar. |
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Post by Gimpalong on Oct 22, 2012 13:55:07 GMT -5
Exactly. This is a fundamental problem that can't be easily addressed. Until this issue is resolved (and it very well may be irresolvable) then I think event hosts are just going to have sort of fudge things with P* users and keep an eye on people as they play.
I agree that everyone should chrono using energy and fps.
It's pretty clear that a lot of people "cheat" the chrono by chronoing with .20s at 400 fps (1.5j) and then switching to .25s, .30s or .40s when they actually play. Nobody really worries about this issue with AEGs even though it is a common occurrence.
And even though this happens frequently, we haven't see a whole lot of injuries or issues. It's probably ok to let this practice continue provided people aren't pumping out energy levels absurdly higher than the supposed 1.5j maximum.
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Post by Pagan on Oct 22, 2012 13:58:48 GMT -5
I agree that everyone should chrono using energy and fps. We've been using energy for chronoing at No Limits this year. Any effort to keep things as standardized as possible. |
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