A guide to the Polarstar Fusion Engine

[Gimpalong]

I just wanted to post a brief summation of my experience installing the Fusion Engine into a G&P M4A1.

As I have mentioned many times previously, I have enough confidence in my tinkering abilities to be dangerous. I usually am confident enough to ignore the little voice in my head that says "hey, maybe you shouldn't do this because you could break something." By ignoring that voice, I usually do, in fact, break whatever it is I am working on.

Now, that said, I found the installation of the P* Fusion Engine to be fairly pain free. Once I tore down my existing receiver and removed the old gearbox, getting the Fusion Engine to fit was a breeze. The trigger pin was a very tight fit, but using a punch I was able to get it to seat home.

My P* shipped wired to the rear with a JST connector on the FCU. I had to resolder from JST to Deans. Not a huge deal, but I expected (from photographs) that the FE would have a small tamiya attached to the FCU.

My first install of the FE resulted in only having only semi-automatic mode when the fire selector was switch to either "SEMI" or "FULL."

I followed this guide (reviews.ampedairsoft.com/polarstar-fusion-engine-full-auto-alignment/) to heat shrink the full-auto selector bar.

*When following this guide, make sure you have the correct size tool to remove the button head screw that holds the selector bar to the selector plate. You do NOT want to strip this screw.*

Initially, I placed one piece of shrink wrap over the bar. This did not correct the issue.
On my second attempt, I added a second layer of shrink wrap heat shrink to the bar. This did not correct the issue. I could only fire fully automatic when the selector was switched to "FULL" and then pressed against the receiver with a thumb.
On my third attempt, I made sure that the heat shrink ran the entire length of the selector bar. Rather than just wrapping the very middle of the bar, I made sure that it was wrapped along its entire length in two layers of heat shrink. This corrected the issue and I now have both "SEMI" and "FULL" fire modes.

My overall impression of the teardown is that it should be a simple process for any technician familiar with the breakdown of M4/M16 style rifles. As has been mentioned by others (HS5 over at ASM) P* really put some thought into how the FE would be put together. Unlike many airsoft products, this one did not require significant modification to fit properly. The FCU and accompanying wire harness are easy to mate together, not requiring any soldering. The guts of the FE are easy to access and there are no little springs, screws or other bits to burst out on the unsuspecting.

In summary, if I can install the FE and get it working correctly, I would hazard that 90% of other, regular, adult airsofters can do the same.

[Swamp-man]

I have been told that I cannot use a P* at Fueling the Fire 2 this year unless it has a tournament lock on it. I have never done paintball so I only have a vague idea of what that means. Googling it only really brought up sites saying that a lock was required, not actual locks I could buy.

Does anyone have a link to something like that?

The P* is an sr-25 shooting just under 550 with .2s and it is locked into semi-auto. The air rig is the one ampedairsoft sells.

[Gimpalong]

It has come to my attention through several different forums (chief among them the pstartalk forum) that several sites have banned P*s due to the following reasons:

1) The ability of the user to easily change velocity by adjusting their output PSI.
2) The ability of the user to overvolumn their rifle using the DP setting and effectively cheat or exploit the chronograph.
3) Inability to effectively police/regulate P*s due to both 1) and 2) and a lack of information about the P* system in general.

In the past, the MiA forum has played an important role in establishing safety guidelines for events occurring within the state.

See for example the "Rules for Michigan Airsoft Players" Guidelines
miairsoft.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=r-n-r&action=display&thread=6786

What I propose is the development of a "Polarstar FAQ and Chronograph Guidelines" sheet that will do two things:

1) Inform event hosts and field owners about the P* System.
This section would detail how the system works, include information on regulators, HPA, FCU settings, etc. This section will not be too technical, but will at least inform event hosts about the system and how it functions. This section will also briefly note PTW/CTWs, ICS and Ares rifles and how they are also capable of adjusting their FPS.

2) Provide guidelines for correctly chronographing P* rifles.
This section would include a chart describing common bb weights and energy levels.

For example, it might include a (better) chart or diagram of the information listed below:

Sites with 400 fps (1.5 joule) with .20 maximum velocity
Someone chronoing with .40s will chrono at 285 fps (1.5 joule)
Someone chronoing with .35s will chrono at 305 fps (1.5 joule)
Someone chronoing with .30s will chrono at 329 fps (1.5 joule)
Someone chronoing with .25s will chrono at 360 fps (1.5 joule)

Sites with 330 fps (1.01 joule) with .20 maximum velocity
Someone chronoing with .40s will chrono at 234 fps (1.01 joule)
Someone chronoing with .35s will chrono at 250 fps (1.01 joule)
Someone chronoing with .30s will chrono at 270 fps (1.01 joule)
Someone chronoing with .25s will chrono at 295 fps (1.01 joule)


I think it's important for P* users to step up and set a positive example by agreeing on some common guidelines that would make the use of the system more safe and also give event hosts a sense that the P* user community is tackling the abuses that can occur with the system. It's my feeling that we would be better off providing event hosts with information on the system and potential solutions to problems rather than having them create their own "solution" by just banning P*s in general.

What I want to know from P* users and people knowlegable about the system, is what types of guidelines should be created to insure that P*s can be used safely on the field. Specifically, I'm interested in how these guidelines could be effectively implemented in the simplest and easiest way possible so that event hosts aren't overly hassled.

The chief complaints about P*s that I have heard are:
1) People crank their FPS up by adjusting their output PSI up.
2) People cheat/exploit the chrono by adjusting their Poppet Dwell settings so that they chrono below 400 fps (1.5 joules) with .20s at the chrono station, but actually output higher than 1.5 joules in energy by switching to heavier weight bbs.
3) People have ROFs that are too high and consequently overshoot other players.

A few general safety/guideline questions below:


1) Should tournament regulator locks or regulator covers be required?

2) What's the best way to prevent chrono cheating or exploiting?
2a) Make P* users chrono with the bbs they will use on the field and insure (by using some sort of spreadsheet or guide) that the output energy doesn't exceed the maximum field limit for .20s (typically 1.5 joules)?
2b) Set a weight cap for what bbs P* users can use?
2c) Force P* users to only use "x" weight bb?

3) Should ROF be regulated?
3a) Disallow bursts higher than 3?
3b) Disallow super high ROFs?

[Blitz]

For your last group of questions:

1: I don't know much about paintball so I can't be of any help there.
2a: Yes
2b/c: No
3a: I don't see how this would affect the game much unless event hosts treat burst like semi-auto, because a high number burst is just like full auto.
3b: Yes

[Swamp-man]

1) No unless you can show me a link to a product that would do that. I have looked around without much luck. From what I have heard, pb locks are for wing-nut regulators which from what I have seen is not what people are using for P*.

2a) Yes
2b) No because CQB and DMR need different bbs.
2c) No because CQB and DMR need different bbs.

3) No
3a) No
3b) High ROF is possible with non-P* so no.

[Gimpalong]

Apparently, the DP setting's effect on energy output is negligible. Notice how the energy output at different DP settings doesn't change in the tests below.

[Testing after this post was made has pretty much invalidated the above. DP setting DOES have an impact. The tests below were both made using ORGAs which may have impacted the result]

Tests conducted by "Angus" (who I think is Travis Hardy, a Polarstar employee).

Reposted from Pstartalk (see here www.pstartalk.com/showthread.php?122-Polarstars-banned/page2)

Silver nozzle at 90psi on prowin W-Hold, H-Nub, orga 260mm

370 .20 at 10 dp 1.26j
293 .40 at 10 dp 1.6j

370 .20 at 30 dp 1.27j
294 .40 at 30 dp 1.58j

370 .20 at 50 dp 1.27j
290 .40 at 50 dp 1.59j

Doing 363mm Orga, Flat Hop, Prowin now.
Results with the following:
ORGA 363 flat prowin silver 90 PSI

.20 @ 10dp is 400fps 1.49J
.40 @ 10dp is 326fps 1.71J

.20 @ 30dp is 402fps 1.49J
.40 @ 30dp is 322fps 1.92J

.20 @ 50dp is 403fps 1.51J
.40 @ 50dp is 322fps 1.92J

ORGA 363 flat prowin silver 90 PSI

.20 @ 10dp is 400fps 1.49J
.40 @ 10dp is 326fps 1.92J

.20 @ 30dp is 402fps 1.49J
.40 @ 30dp is 322fps 1.92J

.20 @ 50dp is 403fps 1.51J
.40 @ 50dp is 322fps 1.92J

Based on these tests, it seems like the only thing that affects energy output is overall velocity based on the PSI of the regulator and the weight of the round being fired (.20, .30, .40, etc). Energy creep (i.e. increasing joules with increasing bb weight) does occur, but (based on the above tests) doesn't seem to be connected with the DP setting.

Tentatively, what this means is that the whole DP "cheat" or "exploit" as described above is invalid. You cannot increase output energy by adjusting the DP setting. Output energy can only be increased by increasing PSI (and consequently velocity) or by increasing bb weight. [Not true, the DP setting can increase output energy when adjusted correctly according to some tests]

Knowing this, it would seem that event hosts should do three (a fourth, optional) things to insure that Polarstars are being used appropriately on the field:

1) Write down the PSI as shown on the regulator. If someone complains, check the PSI, if the PSI is shown as higher than what gun was producing at initial chrono = ejection.
2) Chrono with whichever weight bbs the user intends to use on the field. No real way to regulate this, unfortunately, as the user could chrono with .25s, produce less than 1.5 joules and then switch to .40s and go over the 1.5 joule maximum limit due to "energy creep."
3) Note the FPS and number of joules being produced (for a regular, non-DMR, greater than 400 FPS with .20s and/or greater than 1.5 joules with any bb weight = no go).
4) (optional) place a piece of tape or tag between the upper receiver and lower receiver (prevents nozzle switching) and place a piece of tape or tag over the PSI adjuster on the regulator.


A graphic/table/whatever like this might be useful for event hosts:

Sites with 400 fps (1.5 joule) with .20 maximum velocity
Maximum FPS for someone chronoing with .40s = 285 fps (1.5 joule)
Maximum FPS for someone chronoing with .35s = 305 fps (1.5 joule)
Maximum FPS for someone chronoing with .30s = 329 fps (1.5 joule)
Maximum FPS for someone chronoing with .25s = 360 fps (1.5 joule)
Maximum FPS for someone chronoing with .20s = 400 fps (1.5 joule)

Sites with 330 fps (1.01 joule) with .20 maximum velocity
Maximum FPS for someone chronoing with .40s = 234 fps (1.01 joule)
Maximum FPS for someone chronoing with .35s = 250 fps (1.01 joule)
Maximum FPS for someone chronoing with .30s = 270 fps (1.01 joule)
Maximum FPS for someone chronoing with .25s = 295 fps (1.01 joule)
Maximum FPS for someone chronoing with .20s = 330 fps (1.01 joule)

*FPS/Joule figures created using the FPS Calculator from Arnie's Airsoft.

*Someone can jump in here and correct me if what I've outlined is incorrect. I'm not an expert on the physics of these guns, and am largely repeating what I've encountered at various places and trying to fit all the pieces together.

[Ghast]

Jul 2, 2012 15:03:41 GMT -5 Gimpalong said:

snip

I'd like to implement this rule at future Hellfish events. It's a simple and great idea to regulate P*'s.

[Swamp-man]

Nice write up. You should also post the 550fps limits for those of us DMRing with our P*.

[Master_Oki_Akai]

Ok so i got my P* and installed it and tested at the Rec game today.

Installation was a snap except for getting the fire selector properly aligned, that necessitated a second try and was successful.
I also found a problem with running the hose through the grip and I just must have not looked hard enough for a solution but it was an easy act of pulling off the hose cap. I must say for something that comes off so easily it holds on pretty good!

I've had the same problem with not getting semi and auto functionality but i have not gotten to the point of trying the shrink wrap fix. But I set the ROF as slow as possible so it's very easy to fire single shots anyway. So I'm not in a particular hurry to get my selector issue corrected at this time.

Using the default blue nozzle i chromed in at about 380fps using .20s
I got the red nozzle too and will see how things go with that as i tune it in good and proper.

Thing sounds really loud BUT i'm not totally sure if that's due to the settings being off or the amplifier i'm using. An easy answer I hadn't the presence of mind to pursue at the time.

Got a ninja 50/4500 SLP tank and a straight line regulator to go with it. Since Hole in the Wall only fills up to 3000 I couldn't do a max fill on the tank but it looks to have lasted me for all my mid caps with probably a hi-caps worth still left.

Not being savvy to air tanks or hoses and the like Jason at HitW was very helpful and gave me the adjustments and info I absolutely needed to keep the thing set, safe and functioning. Like keeping it filled rather than empty, proper opening of the flow, customizing the 360 ring and setting the regulator flow. Made sure i didn't get paranoid about blowing up my P* with over pressurization.

[Gimpalong]

I installed the Revision Two FCU last night.

The Revision Two adds a few additional features to the original board. I was primarily interested in the "plug and play" wire harness. The Revision 2 FCU comes wired for JST, not Deans or Tamiya.

The Version 1 wire harness runs between the Fusion Engine and the Version 1 FCU, and plugs into the FCU with 5 or 6 individual wires that have to be threaded into the board itself. If you own a P* you know what I'm talking about. These wires always seemed fragile to me, and there was always one that would pull out of the board when I was trying to fit it into my buffer tube.

www.ampedairsoft.com/v/vspfiles/images/pr15-fcu-swap/23.jpg
Version 1 FCU Wire Harness


Revision Two FCU Wire Harness (note the plugs on either end rather than loose wires)

The Revision Two FCU plugs directly into the Fusion Engine and then directly into the FCU, no little wires to have to plug into tiny holes. Just a single plug going into a single port.

The R2FCU kit comes with the following extra bits and features (quoted from Amped Airsoft)

The upgrade kit includes the following parts:
1x Updated Switch Board
1x Revision 2 Fire Control Unit
1x Revision 2 Wire Harness

New Features:
Sleep Mode (Default is off)
Lipo Protection (Default is off)
I/O Port for Future Accessory Board (Box Mag, Tracers, etc)
Full Auto / Semi Auto Reversal Option
Upgraded Components

I had two issues with the install.

Issue 1:

The Revision Two FCU isn't just a plug and play replacement for the stock FCU. While there is a new FCU included, there is also a replacement switch board to go into the actual Fusion Engine itself. If you've never opened your FE, then you probably haven't see this board, but it accepts wires from the solenoid as well as from the FCU. This board basically translates the commands of the FCU into instructions for the solenoid. This is also the board that has the trigger microswitch and full auto button that gets depressed by the selector bar when you switch into fully automatic.

In the image below you can see the switch board with the solenoid and FCU wires entering it.


In order to remove the switch board, two cap screws need to be removed. The one on the rear of the board is easily removed, the one that runs through the center of the board is trickier and this is where my problem developed. The center cap screw runs through the board, through the FE shell, through the selector plate and into a copper or nylon nut.

www.ampedairsoft.com/v/vspfiles/images/fe-selector-fix/8.jpg
Center cap Screw

www.ampedairsoft.com/v/vspfiles/images/fe-selector-fix/12.jpg
Nut

In order to get the cap screw out of the nut you need to take some needle nose pliers and hold the nut still while rotating the cap screw. It sounds easy, but the nut is very thin and requires a bit of delicacy to grab. I managed to get the cap screw out by myself, but it would have been nice to have an extra set of hands to hold.


Issue 2:
When you insert the new switch board, you'll have to reattach the FCU wire harness and the solenoid wires. In my initial install attempt I reversed these wires which caused the gun not to function correctly. The wires look alike and unless you're paying close attention it is easy to mix them up and plug them into the wrong ports. What I learned from Bingo on the Pstartalk forum is that:

www.pstartalk.com/showthread.php?271-FCU-Installation

The plugs that come from the solenoids are marked. You'll notice that one of the plugs, at the bottom, has a black bar. This is the left solenoid that controls the poppet valve. That plug goes into the lower plug on the trigger circuit board [switch board], the one closer to the trigger. The unmarked plug goes into the upper header, closer to the cylinder.

The black bar is, literally, on the very bottom of the plug. Not running around the bottom side edge of the plug, but actually on the bottom, so you have to flip the plug around to see it.

If you do, inadvertently, reverse these wires, you'll notice that your FE won't feed properly and that is sounds "funny."

Overall, the installation process is fairly easy (barring any screw-ups) and anyone with some tools and a little common sense should be able to figure it out. Once again, Polarstar has managed to impress me with how well thought out and easy to work on their Fusion Engine system is.

[Gimpalong]

I also want to mention that for those people using Redline Airsoft's "Devgru" rig which features the SCM-III regulator, a tournament lock has been developed.

www.pstartalk.com/showthread.php?209-AKA-SMC-lll-Tournament-Lock

www.shapeways.com/model/646696

I ordered one and will report on it when it arrives.

[Gimpalong]

Received my SCM-III tournament lock.



Sorry, not my picture, but it works as described by covering the location where a tool could be used to adjust the regulator PSI up or down. The item was created and ordered through Shapeways which uses 3D printers to produce user uploaded designs. The material used by Shapeways, which I imagine is necessary for the printers, seems a bit light weight and brittle. It's hard to say how well the lock will hold up (I don't plan on bashing it against anything) in the long term. I know the material in the image looks like foam, but it's actually a plastic of some sort.

Anyway, for those of you interested in a lock of some sort to reassure nervous event hosts, they are available here in several colors:

www.shapeways.com/model/646696

[Serfis]

Great guide!

[Gimpalong]

Just wanted to point out that Ike actually wrote the guide on the front page.

All I'm doing is adding bits and pieces here and there.

[Mles]

Getting my Polartstar this weekend, I am definitely getting the tourney lock. Can it be used on rigs besides the Red-line ones? Also, where do you get the caps to put on the end of your connector things (the McMaster parts, too lazy to look up exact name)?