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Post by Shanker on Dec 25, 2011 20:35:54 GMT -5
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xghostmakerx
New Member
For the emperor, for Tanith!
Posts: 420
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Post by xghostmakerx on Dec 25, 2011 21:03:40 GMT -5
I've got a stock G&P and personally I would not run a 11.1 lipo in it. That battery should do you right but you can probably buy a battery as good as this one from a US retailer for less money though.
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Post by Shanker on Dec 25, 2011 21:18:10 GMT -5
I was thinking the 7.4 anyway just because of price, but I am going to buy from here because there is some other things I want from here and I want to keep it at one site. So this one will fit?
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Post by Timm on Dec 26, 2011 1:34:02 GMT -5
Yes it will. I've had 4 of them in the past. Perfect buffer tube lipo.
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Post by Shanker on Dec 26, 2011 7:31:08 GMT -5
Thank you guys for the help.
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Post by Dahm on Dec 26, 2011 11:12:28 GMT -5
Just a reminder, it is a good idea to run an Active-Braking MOSFET when you use a LiPo.
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ctres
New Member
Posts: 955
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Post by ctres on Dec 26, 2011 19:09:46 GMT -5
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Post by Ike on Dec 26, 2011 20:17:56 GMT -5
Just a reminder, it is a good idea to run an Active-Braking MOSFET when you use a LiPo. It is almost NEVER a good idea to run an active braking MOSFET. The braking provides no benefit and will only wear out your motor faster. A simple, non-active braking FET is what you would want.
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ctres
New Member
Posts: 955
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Post by ctres on Dec 27, 2011 15:00:14 GMT -5
What Ike said about mosfets is certainly true, at least in most cases. Many people run AB fets without any problem, but the fact is that they do add wear and tear to any motor. They should only be considered when overspin is a legitimate problem, and even then, it is better to just move up one or two spring rates and then short stroke to bring it back down to the desired fps.
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Post by Dahm on Jan 1, 2012 15:35:44 GMT -5
What Ike said about mosfets is certainly true, at least in most cases. Many people run AB fets without any problem, but the fact is that they do add wear and tear to any motor. They should only be considered when overspin is a legitimate problem, and even then, it is better to just move up one or two spring rates and then short stroke to bring it back down to the desired fps. Like, overspin when turning the motor too quickly with a super high output LiPo? Yeah. The motor is designed for high life, and airsoft motors don't really die. Its the gears, tappets, pistons, and other internal parts that fail MUCH more often. The AB MOSFET's help extend the life of those parts.
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Post by Ghast on Jan 1, 2012 17:33:03 GMT -5
What Ike said about mosfets is certainly true, at least in most cases. Many people run AB fets without any problem, but the fact is that they do add wear and tear to any motor. They should only be considered when overspin is a legitimate problem, and even then, it is better to just move up one or two spring rates and then short stroke to bring it back down to the desired fps. Like, overspin when turning the motor too quickly with a super high output LiPo? Yeah. A MASSIVE headache when I tried to deal with it.
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Post by Ike on Jan 1, 2012 19:24:42 GMT -5
An active breaking FET will not help your gears or other parts last longer. It will create a lot of heat and make your trigger response seem minimally shorter.
You really shouldn't be having overspin issues until you get into very high rate of fire territory. I was doing 35rps @ 400fps with a full piston stroke on my G&P M4 and wasn't having an overspin issue. Usually all you need to do to fix overspin is go up a spring rate or two and short stroke a few teeth to bring your FPS back down, as Ctres said. I've seen setups running into the 50/60rps range that weren't overspinning and didn't use active braking.
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Casper
New Member
Crazy Ghetto Rigger & Pimpin'
Posts: 917
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Post by Casper on Jan 1, 2012 19:33:58 GMT -5
What ctres and Ike mentioned is legit about active braking. I've use it and indeed killed a motor way faster than non active braking.
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ctres
New Member
Posts: 955
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Post by ctres on Jan 1, 2012 19:56:57 GMT -5
To add a little clarification, I know that AB fets work in most setups, but the fact is that they do cause more wear and tear on the motor. Generally, and for nearly all normal airsoft purposes this does not recognizably change the overall lifespan of the motor, but nevertheless will cause increased wear on the brushes, and cause heat to build up much more easily, which is never, in any case, a good thing, though as I mentioned above it often doesn't matter. Anyways, this is just food for thought, and I think that it is valuable information worth sharing.
Also, Dahm, what do you mean by high output? Amps or volts? I'm just curious because it is actually healthier for a motor to get more amps rather than volts. The motor will only draw a certain amount of amps, depending on the motor's specs and the load it's pulling, so one should always set up the battery so that the motor is being supplied a surplus of amps before moving up in voltage. It doesn't make sense to me to starve the motor for amps, but move up a notch in the voltage department for higher rate of fire and trigger response.
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Post by Dahm on Jan 4, 2012 2:24:04 GMT -5
Ctres, I'm speaking of both, but mostly current in Amps. I wouldn't say its "healthier" to run the motor with higher amperage just because. The reason is because an increase in amperage will increase the rotational output of the motors shaft and in turn, it will cycle your gearbox faster which puts less prolonged stress on the pinion and brushes. In English, I'm speaking to less stress on the motor, less "wear and tear" if you will.
However, that's not really what I was getting at. I was talking about supplying the motor with a "healthy" amount of current so it turns the gearbox very quickly, however this can very easily lead to overspin not just of the motor as it turns over but of the entire gearbox. When the gears and other parts move more quickly they have more inertia. That inertia takes more energy to stop those parts more quickly. This is where the AB MOSFET helps out. It slows down the end of the cycle after the spring has been released and parts are coming to a stop, and allows the parts to be slowed down slightly slower which helps dissipate the energy more safely in your gearbox.
Basically, using an AB MOSFET is kind of like adding a bit of wear to the motor instead of to the gearbox. Its actively spinning the motor slower at the end of its rotation in order to lift some of the stress off of the gearboxes internals.
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