Taho
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Post by Taho on Apr 8, 2014 23:42:29 GMT -5
I'll soon be getting some upgrades for my D-Boys M4 platform. I'm familiar with installing said upgrades, but I need some help choosing what would be best for my AEG. I have the option of either getting a Madbull tightbore barrel and Madbull fishbone hopup bucking & nub, or using the money on an upgrade kit from Angel Customs that gives me a ported cylinder, silent aluminum piston and cylinder head, new air nozzle and a G&P bucking. Which ones should I choose for both an increase in range and stability? (Note, the only changes made to my gearbox as of right now is a swiss cheesed piston.)
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Post by snafu on Apr 9, 2014 6:03:30 GMT -5
I would do the barrel first.
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Apr 9, 2014 8:30:29 GMT -5
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Post by Puma1 on Apr 9, 2014 8:30:29 GMT -5
I would have to agree with Snafu here. Upgrade your barrel grouping first. Personally, I'd much rather go for a flat hop than the mad bull bucking and nub. Not only are they easy to install, they're quite good for increasing range/accuracy too.
The cylinder kit, IMO is meant for those with really crappy compression in their stock gun. If you're getting good airseal, there's no need to spend the money on the kit.
In other words, don't fix what isn't broken.
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Taho
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Post by Taho on Apr 9, 2014 10:03:48 GMT -5
Alright, thanks for the quick input so far guys, really appreciate it! I should be able to do a flat-hop mod if I look into it a bit more first, but from what I understand it's mainly just some sanding down on the hump part (please correct me if anything I'm saying is wrong). Even if I do mess up, I'll have two more buckings to work with. And as for compression, even though I'm using a mixed array of D-Boys and Lancer Tactical internal it's holding up rather well; even though I can't really test for a fluctuating FPS due to my lack of a chrono, so I guess I'll hang onto that for now.
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Post by Shadow (314) on Apr 9, 2014 14:24:15 GMT -5
Well, first what performance are you looking to get? None of us can help you if we don't know what your objective is.
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Taho
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Post by Taho on Apr 9, 2014 15:56:46 GMT -5
I just want a gun that can reach about 180 feet or so, have 410 FPS max, decent groupings and shoot around 22 bps. Barrel length is my only real issue here, my blaster only has a 300mm inner barrel. I have no issues with taking risks when it comes to my guns, however, and I plan to do a G-Hop mod on my barrel when the parts come.
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Post by Shadow (314) on Apr 9, 2014 21:38:00 GMT -5
Ok so here are the parts that will be most important to what you're asking for.
Reach out 180 feet: I'm assuming you mean an effective rang of this distance. Possibly hop up nub and bucking. Tune up and make sure all parts are consistent and clean. Most rifles will accomplish this after a tune up. If you want to, upgrading parts would help but you probably won't need to do that much for only 180 feet. If you do decide to replace parts, barrel is a good choice. Only do this after you have checked to see if your piston head and nozzle are making good seals. While you're at it, check your AOE and clean/shim your gearbox.
410 FPS max: For the distance you require, there's no need to come even close to that. Your stock spring will probably be fine. Just make sure to clean and seal all parts to gain efficiency and consistency.
22 Rounds per Second: Make sure to check all your gearbox internals. Shims, AOE, seals, lube, clean... ect. After that, it's just upgrading your voltage. If you find a 9.6V battery won't do it for you, check to see if a 7.4V lipo will. If that's still too low, check to see if your motor, wires, trigger connection, and gearbox will handle an 11.1V lipo. I say 7.4V first because all gearboxes can handle that. What makes lipos so great, other than their superior capacity at the same size, is it's C rating. It'll pump more juice behind a lower voltage and still keep that trigger response. Another big part of your Rounds per Second will be your BB tolerance. Use higher quality BBs that won't be as likely to jam up your gun. Mags will have an effect on this as well.
300mm Barrel length: You're fine here. I've seen shorter barrels do a lot more than what you're asking.
These are my opinions and recommendations for you to think about. I'm no expert. I've just made a lot of mistakes before and have learned a few things. In the end, it's your gun. Make it how you see fit. Good luck!
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Taho
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Post by Taho on Apr 9, 2014 23:05:08 GMT -5
I really appreciate the time you took to write that all out. I'll be getting shims with my order, so I'll do my best to shim the gears nicely. I'll probably also do a Teflon tape mod to my cylinder head to increase seal, and take the first tooth off of the piston and sector gear to help with AOE. On a different note, I still have in my possession a 7.4 lipo with a 15-20C dump, and it never seems to work. It acts like it's trying to make the motor spin but can't. Instead I use a 9.6v Nimh as my main, and when that dries up I have a couple of 8.4s that do fine. Also, I'm sure it could handle an 11.1 lipo if I wanted it to, seeing as it has a JG blue motor and a Jonezy mosfet in it, but I already have four batteries.
One more thing while I'm at it - the motor tends to make a very high pitched noise when I'm firing, and adjusting the motor height screw has no effect on it. This is when compared to the stock motor that came with it. Is it simply because it's a torque motor?
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T6e9a
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Post by T6e9a on Apr 9, 2014 23:47:25 GMT -5
There is really no need to take any teeth off the sector unless you plan to short stroke the system. And on the piston, make sure you know what tooth to shave off. The first tooth is the incorrect term for it. It is more commonly and accurately the second tooth. Where the first tooth is the thick bit at the end of the piston. Shaving the second tooth will allow for the sector gear to engage it more consistently, with less chance to strip the teeth. And to correct the AoE, you'll need either a sorbo pad or a few rubber washers. It can't be entirely corrected from shaving teeth. And these washers/sorbo is glued to the cylinder head, giving a buffer, pushing the piston back. And you are looking for the first tooth of the sector gear to engage the first tooth of the piston at about 12 O'Clock position.
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Taho
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Post by Taho on Apr 10, 2014 0:06:05 GMT -5
Okay, I'll see about ordering a sorbothane pad from ebay. I really actually thought about picking up a 70D 1/4in one from evike but decided not to. What would you suggest as being the best specifications as for a sorbothane pad on a setup shooting from 380-410 FPS? I've seen videos of the 40D ones and they look rather squishy for something that'll be receiving that much wear.
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T6e9a
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Apr 10, 2014 6:48:36 GMT -5
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Post by T6e9a on Apr 10, 2014 6:48:36 GMT -5
I'm not too knowledgable on sorbos, but I would imagine a 70D would be fine. My only concern would be the thickness though. You don't want it to be too thick, or else it will push the piston back too far and possibly not even engage it. Also sorbos, as they take up some cylinder volume, can reduce FPS by a little, so just be aware of that, but it is a great upgrade for the longevity of the system.
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