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Post by DeltaTwoFour on Dec 10, 2012 22:46:43 GMT -5
Ok, so I have a VFC 416, completely stock. Its shooting pretty well with a 9.6, but i want to push a little bit more out of it. Is it able to take an 11.1 LiPO stock or will it crap out on me?
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Zdybel
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Im Zdybel Dig up old Facebook Posts bcuz im 1337
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Post by Zdybel on Dec 10, 2012 22:49:57 GMT -5
I ran an 11.1 in my stock 416 and ran great. It was about 3 weeks of having it when the piston was shredded as a result of shooting full auto for a long period of time. If you don't go crazy on full auto, you should be in the clear.
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ctres
New Member
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Post by ctres on Dec 10, 2012 23:03:09 GMT -5
What zdybel said is true, but an 11.1 WILL eventually burn out the trigger contacts on any gun. Sometimes it happens later rather than sooner. A mosfet solves that issue.
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Post by Myers on Dec 10, 2012 23:06:14 GMT -5
Personally, I think an 11.1v lipo will be a bit overkill. I'd just stick with a 7.4v lipo, it'll give you a SLIGHT increase in ROF when compared to a 9.6v NiCD. Also, doing some DIY upgrades such as a proper shim job and an AoE correct will significantly increase trigger response and reliability. Using a MOSFET would significantly help increase reliability as well.
If you do decide on the 11.1v lipo, I would definitely recommend doing a shim job and AoE correct before running something that powerful. If something is just a tad bit off, You'll tear your internals to pieces very quickly because you will get a massive increase of RPS, thus leading to premature wear and tear on your gearbox.
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Post by Guns McBen on Dec 11, 2012 1:22:04 GMT -5
It should be able to handle an 11.1 without problems. Definitely grab a mosfet to save your trigger contacts, though.
The real question here is, what exactly do you mean by "push a little bit more out of it"? There are about a billion different upgrades and tweaks that you can perform to get different performances out of your gun. The question you need to ask yourself is, "What do I want my gun to do?" Once you know that, we'll be able to recommend more specifics.
Good shim jobs and AoE corrections will help any gearbox, but do your research first. If you don't know what you're doing, you'll run the risk of performance drops (best case) and total gearbox obliteration (worst case).
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Post by Zorak on Dec 11, 2012 9:16:10 GMT -5
Ok, so I have a VFC 416, completely stock. Its shooting pretty well with a 9.6, but i want to push a little bit more out of it. Is it able to take an 11.1 LiPO stock or will it crap out on me? Not going to give you a warning but using "Help" as a subject violates rule one. 1 - Please use specific thread topics. The topic of your thread should let the reader know what the thread is about. Mods have full authority to re-title threads, but we would rather you took care of this yourself. Please update the subject line of your post to be something more descriptive.
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Post by DeltaTwoFour on Dec 11, 2012 11:01:14 GMT -5
Thanks for the input. I have changed the thread's name at admin's request. And when I say "push performance", I mean high RPS with accuracy. Any tips in achieving this goal?
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YoYo-Pete
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Nunquam?Imparatum
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Post by YoYo-Pete on Dec 11, 2012 11:23:23 GMT -5
Tight Bore, Hopup & nub... That will help your accuracy. That's what I'm looking at doing next.
For rate of fire... the thing fires fast. Mine clocked around 23/second with a 9.6v NiCD. I personally dont think increasing your rate of fire is really going to give you any advantage on the field. Its just going to abuse your internals even more causing premature failures.
I'd focus on the accuracy piece (maybe range too) more than upping the power like that. Accuracy and Range is going to help you much more than the rate of fire from the added battery power.
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Post by Guns McBen on Dec 11, 2012 15:34:18 GMT -5
I'd focus on the accuracy piece (maybe range too) more than upping the power like that. Accuracy and Range is going to help you much more than the rate of fire from the added battery power. Absolutely right. Ridiculously fast guns pair well with California airsoft, and you'll be hard pressed to find that play style around here. Unless you want your gun to be a hose, there's a much greater advantage to dumping time and money into accuracy. As far as tightbores go, get yourself a prometheus 6.03, and remember that a longer barrel does not equate to greater accuracy.
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drewroud
New Member
Lipo ready hop up unit
Posts: 486
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Post by drewroud on Dec 11, 2012 18:35:31 GMT -5
I highly suggest getting around to r hoping the whatever barrel you choose, preferably a 6.03. R hop greatly increases the range of the gun.
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Post by DeltaTwoFour on Dec 12, 2012 8:47:46 GMT -5
I am going to r-hop, and get a 6.03 tight bore. But I have been told that longer inner barrels increase accuracy. Also, what is different between LiPO and LiFe batteries?
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Post by Guns McBen on Dec 12, 2012 14:16:34 GMT -5
I am going to r-hop, and get a 6.03 tight bore. But I have been told that longer inner barrels increase accuracy. Also, what is different between LiPO and LiFe batteries? You've been told wrong. Real steel ballistics do not apply to airsoft. When you fire a bullet from a gun, it travels down a rifled barrel. This rifling does two very important things: 1) it spins the bullet, creating a stable trajectory, and 2) it decreases drag on the bullet as it traverses the barrel (as opposed to a smooth bore). If you have a longer barrel, there will be more twists in the rifling, and will create a more stable flight path for that bullet, but you also need more pressure behind the bullet to propel it. If there is not enough pressure, you will end up with a squib (the bullet will get stuck part way down the barrel, and will not exit the muzzle) This bit about pressure is true of airsoft, too, though not quite as drastic. Your cylinder has a very specific volume, that will create a very specific pressure behind your BB. If your barrel has a greater volume than your cylinder, there will not be enough air behind your BB to propel it the entire length of the barrel. While it won't get stuck in the barrel, you will see a massive drop off in velocity. The most important thing is to match your cylinder volume (with piston at its maximum rearward travel) to your barrel. The easiest (laziest?) way to do this is to match your stock barrel length. People always try to apply real steel logic to barrels, and they can't, because the fact remains that they are two different things entirely. LiPo batteries are Lithium Polymer, and LiFe batteries are Lithium Ferrite (made of lithium and iron). I don't know too much about their other characteristics or performance.
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Post by Tank on Dec 12, 2012 16:58:43 GMT -5
LiPo batteries Nominal voltage is 3.7 volts per cell (which is why a 3 cell battery is listed as 11.1V) Charge to 4.2 volts max per cell Minimum safe discharge 3.0 volts per cell Under failure, the cell can burst into flames (they use to build up pressure then explode into flames, but that was fixed by changing casing material years ago)
LiFePO4 (their real formula) Nominal voltage 3.3 volts per cell Charge to 3.6 volts max per cell Minimun safe discharge to 2.8 volts per cell Under failure, they just stop working * Technically these cells have a different charging characteristic so a charger that can charge these cells should be used. Personally I use Hyperion chargers, but I'm sure there are others that will charge them.
The interesting thing about LiFePO4 batteries is that they have a larger temperature range that they will function in. They also lose internal resistance at higher temperatures, which makes them not heat up as much. On the flip side, their internal resistance increases at lower temperatures, which causes the battery to heat up. This in turn will allow more of the battery's full charge at lower temperatures.
Edit: I've been meaning to make a battery for my M4 out of LiFePO4 cells for a while. Some day I'll get motivated enough to do so.
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Post by DeltaTwoFour on Dec 14, 2012 8:41:39 GMT -5
Thanks for the assistance! Quick question, I want to switch my 416 to a field weapon, with more range and accuracy at longer distances. Is a spring switch to a M120 spring a good start? I also plan on getting a tight bore inner barrel and get it R-hopped.
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ctres
New Member
Posts: 955
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Post by ctres on Dec 14, 2012 9:33:52 GMT -5
Don't bother with the spring. VFC's already shoot around 400 and a 120 will probably put you over that and it won't give any noticeable increase in range.
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