Elvis
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Formerly BobHuckins
Posts: 233
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Post by Elvis on Jul 8, 2014 14:38:52 GMT -5
Hello, I am looking for a more accurate, faster shooting gun. I would like to know if I should upgrade the internals of my gun, or sell it and buy a new one. My current gun is a G&G raider (gr-15). It is fairly decent especially for the price I paid. I am considering selling it and buying a F2000. If I was to upgrade it instead of selling it, what should I add? I was thinking of turning it into a DMR. Most likely adding
-500+mm 6.01 tightbore barrel -Barrel extension (Suppressor most likely) -better bucking -Some way to make my gun fire a little bit faster (ROF, not fps) preferably adjustable. I do not know much about gearboxes so i do not know how to do that. -Three shot burst function -Anything else that I should do to make it fire further and more accurate? Or should I just do this on another gun?
Thanks for your help!
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T6e9a
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Post by T6e9a on Jul 8, 2014 15:15:47 GMT -5
If you are considering upgrading internally, first, ask yourself: 'Do I like the externals?' 'Do I like this platform?'
Decide from there. Do you want a metal body? Do you want a shorter/longer gun?
If you are good with the current platform, then internally upgrading will be next. Here are my opinions and input on your list Of possible internal upgrades.
-If I were to go TBB, I would go with 6.03 especially if you still plan to use full auto. 6.01 is rather tight to be putting 13 RPS down, and if one of those jams, you have a wrecked barrel. And a suggestion on the length: I would really only match the inner barrel length to the external barrel, not just trying to throw in as long of a barrel thinking that makes it a range gun.
From experience and research, range/accuracy is achieved through having a good hop up/bucking/nub setup.
-For increasing ROF, a stronger motor would be a great help. But having higher ROF, it is highly recommended to correct your Angle of Engagement.(how sector engages the piston) AOE help with longevity and prevents stripping the piston.
That will help with cycling. Also some other helpful things in the ROF department are low resistance wiring, Deans connectors, and a MOSFET. And for your thoughts of adjusting ROF, that would really only be achievable through a programmable MOSFET. The same with any sort of burst function.
These are my thoughts and suggestions to CONSIDER, not to just blindly follow. I'm sure other will put in some input as well.
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Post by Stinger on Jul 8, 2014 16:18:24 GMT -5
Mostly what T6 said, but also:
Keep in mind that pretty much everything you buy will need upgrades somewhere if you want it to shoot perfectly. If you get a new gun, you will also end up upgrading it.
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Elvis
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Formerly BobHuckins
Posts: 233
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Post by Elvis on Jul 8, 2014 17:34:25 GMT -5
Alright thanks guys. And I like your point CStingerGhost1 , I think I will be upgrading my gun. Thanks a lot!
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Post by Kjones on Jul 9, 2014 1:09:37 GMT -5
Also keep in mind that if you go above 410 FPS then you must modify your gun to fire in semi auto only, therefor your ROF means nothing.
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T6e9a
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Post by T6e9a on Jul 9, 2014 2:21:15 GMT -5
ROF will then only relate to cyclic rate(how fast the system cycles) which if it is high, will have great trigger response.
So not completely related, but partially related.
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Post by Stinger on Jul 9, 2014 13:42:29 GMT -5
Also keep in mind that if you go above 410 FPS then you must modify your gun to fire in semi auto only, therefor your ROF means nothing. As T6 pointed out, you can go for trigger response (which essentially means doing the same things as going for high-RoF). I would be careful with what you do, as there may soon be some changes made to the FPS rules to accommodate P* DRMs and high-end AEG DMRs. It might be best to wait a bit.
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Post by Ogre on Jul 9, 2014 14:26:51 GMT -5
For a bucking/nub combo go with a modify flat hop bucking, not as big of a pain in the ass as R-hop but still boosts your range by about 50 feet
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