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Post by Bulletproof on Sept 20, 2010 17:57:38 GMT -5
Hello all. I am planning to convert my Cybergun SIG 550 into the equivalent sniper rifle: www.biggerhammer.net/sigamt/550/sniper.htmlTo do so would be replacing many of the externals, but not before I replace the internals. I want to make this rifle as accurate and shoot as far as possible. I already have plans to buy a new hop up bucking and nub, as well as a tightbore barrel. There are numerous other things to add, but I think that is a good start. |
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Post by Ike on Sept 20, 2010 18:10:17 GMT -5
[insert smart-aleck response about turning an Airsoft gun into a person]
Most of your links give me a product not found page, so here are just some general guidelines
First off, I'd wait on replacing things like the stock and foregrip, and adding a mock suppressor, until your internals are taken care of. Since its a Cybergun/JG rebrand, you'll probably want a better set of gears, possibly torque ups depending on how hard you want to shoot. I'd also replace the piston (G&P Polycarb or Systema Supercore), but you could see how long the stock piston lasts. A better battery (lipo is fine) would be a good investment. Pretty much any name-brand tightbore will do the job, it just depends on how much you want to spend. Madbull, EDGI, and Prometheus are all good choices, your choice in BBs will have an equally large impact on your accuracy. Also, a new hopup rubber and nub would probably help.
Those are just the basics. Be sure you know what you are getting into though. SIGs are relatively difficult to take down and put back together compared to an M4 or MP5, but not impossible. Also, keep in mind when looking for a motor that SIGs use a medium/mid-length motor, they aren't found as easily as long or short ones.
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Post by Bulletproof on Sept 21, 2010 16:57:47 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice! I like how you suggested certain brands and parts. I still have a few questions, though.
1) I posted this on another forum a while ago and a guy said that 650mm barrels are just for PSG-1s and that if I use it in my SIG that it will create a sort of vacuum to will drastically lower the BB speed. Is this true, if even possible?
2) I was thinking of modding this to shoot only semi-auto(so I can have high FPS and get into most events as a "sniper"). I know this is possible, but how difficult is the procedure and is it reversible?
3) Are you sure it would be medium type motor? Most information I have seen states that it has a long type motor(I think medium is for SIG552). Sorry about the links. I'll edit that and fix it.
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Post by Ike on Sept 21, 2010 17:27:37 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice! I like how you suggested certain brands and parts. I still have a few questions, though. 1) I posted this on another forum a while ago and a guy said that 650mm barrels are just for PSG-1s and that if I use it in my SIG that it will create a sort of vacuum to will drastically lower the BB speed. Is this true, if even possible? 2) I was thinking of modding this to shoot only semi-auto(so I can have high FPS and get into most events as a "sniper"). I know this is possible, but how difficult is the procedure and is it reversible? 3) Are you sure it would be medium type motor? Most information I have seen states that it has a long type motor(I think medium is for SIG552). Sorry about the links. I'll edit that and fix it. 1) My understanding of barrels and cylinders is limited, but I'm sure somebody else could help here. From my understanding as long as you have the right ratio of barrel volume to cylinder volume, you'll be alright. That being said, you may need a bore-up cylinder to effectively use a 650mm barrel. Then again, a 650mm barrel isn't necessary. An M16-length (509mm) barrel would be fine, and you can use the Type 0/Unported cylinder that is probably already in your SIG. 2) Converting an AEG to Semi-Auto Only3) I may be mistaken here, I had a SIG 552 and was just assuming that all of the SIGs used the same motor length. |
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Post by Bulletproof on Sept 22, 2010 20:56:19 GMT -5
Sorry if I did that quote thing wrong. I'm not quite sure how to do it here on MIA. I fixed the links, but I know nothing about barrel to cylinder ratios and cylinders. If you could give me a crash course about how that part of the gun works, that would be fantastic. If you can't, that's okay too. I'm sure I can find it somewhere on the internet.
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Post by Ike on Sept 22, 2010 21:26:26 GMT -5
This thread explains cylinders very well. Basically, my recommendation is to leave your barrel's length the same and get a good quality tightbore. Then you won't have to worry about cylinders. Longer barreled guns have cylinders without a hole in them in order to allow more air into the barrel to push the BB. But with a shorter barrel, you don't need as much air and the excess air creates resistance, slowing down the piston head and your BB. So cylinders found in shorter barreled guns will have a hole (or holes) in them. This lets some air escape as the piston head moves forward, which basically lowers the volume of air that goes through the barrel. When you have the correct cylinder type matched with its corresponding barrel length, you get enough air to push the BB all the way through the barrel but not so much that you create resistance and slow it down. That's the best of my understanding on the subject.
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Post by Bulletproof on Sept 25, 2010 20:20:46 GMT -5
That explains it very well. Thank you. I'll look around at evike and other places for good internal parts, then after the internals are taken care of, then I'll tackle the external stuff. Oh and along with the internals some mid caps. Then maybe some more later... I'll see. The internals aren't a huge hole in the wallet, but enough of them adds up. But it looks like the externals are the more expensive part.
And about the barrel: I had a brain fart and thought that 100mm was 1cm(don't laugh at me, I know I'm stupid), so the barrel will be sticking out a bit more than I thought if I get a 650mm, but i think I saw a quality 590mm for a good price, so I would probably get that. I will also run with .25 gram bbs, so the accuracy should be great!
Again, thanks for the help, and wish me luck on this crazy project!
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Post by Bulletproof on Sept 26, 2010 20:01:46 GMT -5
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Post by Phantom G3 on Sept 27, 2010 11:04:33 GMT -5
Before you get a new spring or piston, the cheaper and not a bad route is to just get a new, good quality TBB. Then a hop up bucking and nub. These will help you a lot until you want to do some more customizing. These three upgrades will help you be the DM/sniper you want before spending the big bucks. Once you have enough money, then comes the gears, springs, and motors.
Make sure to have a nice weight BB as well. Some TBBs are good with .2's while others are good with .25's or .23's. Just get the TBB and see what it shoots better with.
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Post by a1 (Babez) on Sept 27, 2010 16:54:19 GMT -5
If you are going to get a zoom scope, then I'd make your time worth it and get something a little nicer, just saying.
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Post by Bulletproof on Sept 27, 2010 17:27:59 GMT -5
If you are going to get a zoom scope, then I'd make your time worth it and get something a little nicer, just saying. Okay I'm not looking for a huge zoom, but I guess I could get a better quality scope. Phantom: I have the money for most of these things, I just don't like to dish out all my money at the same time. Also, about the hop-up bucking and nub, I'm not good at finding that stuff on the evike website. If you could get some links for me, that would be fantastic. Springs and pistons aren't big holes in the pocket, but on the other hand a prometheus quality TBB is. With thought about your post, I will make a new list of stuff to buy. Here it is: TBB, Hop-up nub and bucking(my hop up doesn't like me right now anyway), high torque gears, M170 spring, new battery, and possibly a polycarb piston. I going to guess that's about $170. This is just a list, and I probably won't buy it all at the same time. |
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Post by Phantom G3 on Sept 27, 2010 20:21:55 GMT -5
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Post by Bulletproof on Sept 28, 2010 16:49:18 GMT -5
Your probably right about the spring, I was going for M150 and above and that looked like a good one. I haven't seen a polycarb piston with metal teeth, but I'm guessing they would be a bit more expensive than a regular polycarb piston. |
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Post by Kiki on Oct 1, 2010 2:40:01 GMT -5
Ok.... So one thing you need to understand first. A higher powered spring won't just hurt your wallet, it will hurt your gearbox and motor if not properly reinforced.
If you're set on a 500+ FPS setup, then you'll pretty much need an internal overhaul. That's not just a new piston and gears, that's:
-New piston, polycarbonate, at least 1-3 metal teeth
-New piston head
-New gears, torque-up preferred
-New spring guide, metal with bearings (I like Prometheus)
-Shim set, and a good shim & grease
Then you'll need a high-torque motor. G&P M160 is supposed to be great, but I'm sure others are fine too. A LiPo wouldn't be a bad idea either.
If you're going to be firing in semi-auto a lot, an AB MOSFET would be a good idea to save your trigger contacts from frying too quickly (especially with an 11.1v LiPo).
Now all of the above is basically just for reliability. Performance wise (initially), everything besides the motor and battery won't change much. However, if you were to keep everything stock and throw in an M150, your gearbox would hate you. Stock clone gears simply can't take that kind of torque, and the piston certainly can't either. The higher spring rating means more energy going from the piston to the cylinder head which will result in a decreased life expectancy from your piston head (possibly cylinder head too, depending on what it's made of).
For raw performance without spending too much cash right off the bat, I would suggest a good tightbore (Prometheus), a good nub/bucking (Systema or Prometheus), good bbs (no Matrix crap, go with G&G, Madbull, AE, etc...), and a PDI 170% spring (~400 FPS). Yes, 400 FPS. A spring only costs ~$15, and a PDI 170% spring won't rape your stock gearbox nearly as quickly as an M150 will. So if you don't want to spend a ton of money on internal reinforcement, stick with a PDI 170% spring for now. Then later, if you have more money to buy the internal parts, go for a higher spring (I would highly recommend Guarder or PDI springs over Systema type "M-xxx" springs as they are easier on your gearbox).
To sum it all up, the best thing you can do now (without spending a fortune) is go for a ~400 FPS setup with a good tightbore, bucking/nub, and bbs.
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Post by Bulletproof on Jul 24, 2011 20:01:31 GMT -5
Before buying the tightbore, I think my outer barrel should be the appropriate length, 650mm. I would much prefer to not buy two tightbores. I am considering a PSG1 outer barrel, but have no idea how to remove my outer barrel or replace it or whatever. Any help is appreciated.
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