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Post by justified on Oct 12, 2011 23:08:07 GMT -5
There are a few ways to lower your fps but the best way to do it is just by simply changing your spring. This is the only foolproof way I know of. Just pick the spring that corresponds to the fps you want. As for a pistol I have heard good things about this pistol but I haven't used/seen it so I can't be certain. shop.ehobbyasia.com/pistols-gbb-smgs/kwa/kwa-m1911-mkii-gbb-pistol-black.html
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Post by Knief on Oct 13, 2011 7:17:32 GMT -5
FYI, your third link there is dead. KWA AEGs are meh. You'll find some people who go ape shit for them, and I do believe they're trying. But I still see far too many of them broken back at the staging area to think of them as being very reliable. I'd go with G&P or G&G any day over KWA. Their line up isn't so impressive that you can get something from them that nobody else offers, so I don't see a lot of appeal in them. Regarding out of stock products, that's a little tricky. Sometimes out of stock means just what you think it means--the shop ran out and are awaiting a new shipment. But a lot of time in airsoft, out of stock actually means that it's out of production and you won't be able to find it new. Your options are either to search around other shops (since you're already looking at Hong Kong based retailers, check out www.wgcshop.com, www.uncompany.com and www.redwolfairsoft.com for reliable overseas sellers) or pick a different gun. If you get a gun shooting over 350 and you want to drop the velocity down under CQB limits (a smart choice if it's your only AEG), then you need a new spring. There's no other reliable way to lower the velocity on an AEG. Something like a PDI 130% is perfect. It safely gets you around 335-340 FPS, and PDI makes some of the best springs available. They're shorter, which means they lose less velocity as they settle, and they're a bit easier on your gearbox through the cycle. I should note that most stock guns will loose a few FPS after a little use. Springs break in and settle, so you could be looking at a drop anywhere from 10-30 FPS depending on brand. For instance, G&Gs often come shooting around 360 FPS, but settle to about 330-340 FPS. I don't believe KWAs are known for settling too much, so if it comes shooting 380, it's not going to drop below 350. Sidearms are window dressing. That doesn't mean that you shouldn't get one, but it shouldn't be a priority. They're a lot of fun to have and use, they look good as a part of your kit (assuming you get a good holster to go with), and they're even practical every now and then. But mostly, they're not that practical. Unless you make it a point to pull your sidearm or you have a gun shooting over 350 FPS and you need something to use up close, you'll rarely have a use for a pistol. But again, that doesn't mean don't buy one. Hell, I own 8 pistols at the moment, and I love them all. But the only time I really use them in game is when I make it a point to use them because I think it's fun to drop the rifle and draw my sidearm to clear out a bunker or whatever. As for which sidearm to buy, you're looking at the same situation as with AEGs. You need to find a model that you like and then see which top brands make it. The KWA that Justified linked isn't bad, but it's not really that special either. KWA used to make absolute garbage, but with their PTP line, they've raised the bar a bit. KSC and TM are the top two manufacturers right now, with KSC having a wider range of better guns, while TMs best models are probably a touch better than KSC's counterparts. For instance, TM's M9s are mediocre. They shoot well but look like plastic ass, feel like toys, break easily when run on propane/Green Gas and don't have little features like a functional decocker. KSC's M9, on the other hand, looks, shoots, functions and feels great. It's easily the best M9 on the market. Same goes for their Glocks. However, TM's more recent models (1911, MEU, Hicapa, Sig series, PX4, etc) are just fan-fucking-tastic, and are heads and shoulders above any of their competitors guns. That doesn't mean that the KSC counterparts (the ones they make, that is) are bad. They're still great guns, on par with their excellent M9 and Glock series. But the TM models are just that much better than really anything else being made. If you like a gun that they've designed in the last 3 or 4 years, there's little reason to buy anything else. If you don't, if you'd prefer something like an M9 or USP or whatever, then you'll want to look elsewhere. Reasons why Evike sucks are pretty well documented here: miairsoft.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=evikeTheir miss rate is just huge compared to other retailers. Did I cover everything? Ask again if I missed something.
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Loaye
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Post by Loaye on Oct 13, 2011 23:24:52 GMT -5
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Post by Thor on Oct 14, 2011 3:18:53 GMT -5
My general rule of thumb when dealing with Evike is small, lower cost orders so that it's not as easy for them to screw something up. I've actually had decent luck ordering from them in the last year or so, but that doesn't mean you should just ignore all the other bad dealings people have had.
Few retailers are perfect every time, just some are running in the 90-95% range, and some are running around 75% range. Those getting it right 75% of the time are still getting it right the vast majority of the time, but you're still going to hear more bad experiences from dealing with them. In my experience, what separates good retailers from bad ones is not whether they make a mistake or something goes wrong, it's how they deal with it after the fact. The ones that do everything they can to make it right in a timely manner know that's what can make or break their reputation. And some retailers have gotten big enough where frankly, they just don't really care because they do so much volume. It's like comparing the difference in customer service between Wal-mart and more of a mom and pop store. Wal-mart doesn't need your business, people are going to shop there no matter what. But that smaller store needs customer loyalty to survive.
If you have questions about a retailer, definitely check out the retailer reviews. I think we've had people order from the vast majority of well-known sites, so you won't find too many that no one has ever dealt with.
Sounds like you're well on your way, and we can certainly try to answer any more specifics you might have questions on.
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Loaye
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Post by Loaye on Oct 16, 2011 19:26:02 GMT -5
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Post by Knief on Oct 16, 2011 19:42:28 GMT -5
That gun is wired to the rear, not the front, according to the description and the batteries linked as suggestions on the side of the page. As for what size battery will fit, confirm with somebody who owns a G&G that the crane stock can house sub-c cells. Many crane stocks cannot hold sub-c cells, in which case you'd be looking at A cells of some variety (A, 4/5A, 2/3A, depending on what length you want to use). Neither of the batteries Ehobby suggests use Sub-C cells, which makes me think that the stock cannot hold them. But again, wait for somebody with a G&P to confirm that. If the stock is large enough to accommodate the width of those cells, you should be aware that with the two cells running up the buffer tube, you will lose the ability to collapse the stock all the way. You may lose the closest two or three settings, but definitely the closest one. One last thing to note, some airsoft companies use non-standard Deans connectors on their guns, but a battery from EAB will come with a proper Deans connector. You may end up having to switch out the connector on the gun. It's an easy job to do, and might not even be an issue. It's just a potential problem to be aware of. [edit] www.neasg.org/index.php?option=com_agora&task=topic&id=11872Reply #5 www.airsoftretreat.com/forums/index.php?topic=81374.0
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Post by justified on Oct 16, 2011 20:35:34 GMT -5
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Loaye
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Post by Loaye on Oct 16, 2011 21:05:21 GMT -5
I'm confused about the one that I gave the link to. About the T-Shape thing, do I have to get a battery to fit it, or any type of battery, or is that an optional thing to put into the gun?
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Post by Knief on Oct 17, 2011 5:46:22 GMT -5
What they're calling a "T-shaped connector" is the plug, which is more commonly known as a Deans connector. They're most likely not using a Dean's brand connector, but a knock off with the same design. That may or may not be compatible with an actual Deans connector, which is what your battery from EAB will come with. That black three way tube dealy is an optional spacer that you can use to keep your battery from rattling around in the stock. You don't need to buy a battery that fit in it (it's most likeyl sized for A width cells), but you do need to buy a battery that fits into the openings in the stock. From what I've turned up, it looks like Sub-C cells are too wide to fit into the stock. Some companies, like Classic Army designed their crane stocks to be larger than the real LMT SOPMOD stock in order to house the larger Sub-C cells. Other companies, like G&G, kept their stocks accurate to the real steel stock design, which limits them from using Sub-C cells. It looks like G&P also uses a more accurately designed stock, but because of that you can't use a battery made with Sub-C cells. They're just too wide to fit. So you'll want a battery made with A cells of some variety. I would use the battery that justified linked to (in fact I do, in my G&G). It is the lowest capacity of any of the packs you might be able to fit, but it allows you to keep all of the cells in the side compartment of the stock. Because of that, you won't have to store any cells in the buffer tube, which means that you'll be able to retain the full range of extension your stock has to offer. Conversely, you could use a larger cell ( 4/5A for instance) and gain more capacity, but you'll have to keep a couple cells in the buffer tube, so you'll probably lose a notch or two of extension. For me, I'd rather have two smaller batteries and retain functionality. But that's a choice that you can make.
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Loaye
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Post by Loaye on Oct 19, 2011 11:57:46 GMT -5
So even though the G&P I'm getting is crane stock. The Nunchuck(small type) justified linked us to will work in it?
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Post by Knief on Oct 19, 2011 12:34:50 GMT -5
Yes, that battery is meant to fit in both crane stocks and foregrips. When you see the inside of the stock and how it stores the battery, you'll understand.
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Post by justified on Oct 19, 2011 13:07:14 GMT -5
It can be a tight fit sometimes if your in a hurry to pack it in. Just be careful not to stuff it in and end up pinching the wires the extra minute it takes to adjust everything right is worth not having to buy a new battery or the frustration of it not working. Just be careful with it.
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Post by Knief on Oct 19, 2011 13:35:21 GMT -5
It shouldn't be a tight fit at all. I actually shimmed by battery with some electrical tape to keep it from rattling around in the compartment. You want to be careful how you place the wires to prevent them from being pinched between the buffer tube and the stock for sure. But that battery is way smaller than the storage compartments in the crane stock.
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Post by justified on Oct 19, 2011 15:15:46 GMT -5
Weird the one in mine is a little tough. I can't even collapse my stock all the way I lose the first notch and sometimes 2 in the stock. Its not as wide but deepness is the problem.
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Post by Knief on Oct 19, 2011 15:32:59 GMT -5
That battery doesn't put any cells in the buffer tibe. It should have no impact on how you collapse your stock. Can you take a few pictures from different angles of how you're inserting it?
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