Post by TheEnd on Jan 20, 2011 17:30:09 GMT -5
KWA KP45 GBB Disassembly guide including trigger replacement.
This guide may not be copied and posted on other sites. If you wish to share the information please post a link to this thread.
Welcome to the complete KWA KP45 GBB dissasembly Guide. Before you begin taking your KWA KP45 apart please read the entire guide. There are springs in certain areas that can fly out when a part is removed. To help avoid this and any other confusion please read the whole guide before trying disassemble anything.
I made this guide to help others fix their KWA KP45 GBB pistols. By following this guide you are disassembling your KP45 at your own risk. If you have trouble shoot me a PM and I will be glad to help. But I will not pay for any replacement parts or pieces.
The KP45 series of GBB pistols are not easy to disassemble. I would not recommend trying to disassemble one as a first timer. I tried my best to show each step but these pistols require a lot of trial and error. I STRONGLY[/b][/i] suggest looking at the pistols inner workings before even attempting to disassemble it.
With all that out of the way, lets begin.
Tools needed for complete dissasembly:
- 1 Large phillips head
- 1 Medium phillips head
- 1 Small phillips head
- 1 Large flat head
- 1 Tiny flat head
- 1 Microscopic flat head
- 1 Paid needle nose pliers
- 1 Pair of tweezers
- 1 Set SAE allen wrenches*
- 1 Set metric allen wrenches*
- 1 Hammer
*Out of the four I have worked on the allen sizes have varied. I would suggest having both just to be sure.
Now that you have the tools, you will need the KP45. For most of the guide I will be using a customers KP45 compact which has a broken trigger. The mechanism is the same for the compact and full size. The Match has some very small differences but this guide will work for them as well.
This guide does cover trigger replacement. To replace the trigger the entire frame must be disassembled. Please do not try to skip to the replacement steps, you must follow the complete frame disassemble section.
Basic tear down.
Step 1: Clear the gun. Make sure there are no BB's in the chamber and that the magazine is removed.
Step 2: Remove the slide.
A. Pull the slide back to cock the hammer. Next line the notch in the slide up with the take down lever.
B. Pull the take down lever out of the frame and push the slide forward and off the frame.
Slide dissasembly
Step 1: Remove hop up and barrel assembly, and recoil spring.
A. Pull the recoil spring forward, and tilt the mount upward.
B. Remove the recoil spring assembly.
C. Move the hop up and barrel assembly forward. Then tilt and remove it from the slide.
Hop up disassembly
Step 1: Remove outer barrel
A. Simply pull the inner barrel out of the outer barrel.
Here is the inner barrel and hop up assembly.
B. Remove barrel retention screw.
C. Remove barrel retention bracket.
Note the small hook on top. Make sure to re-hook it when putting it back together.
D. Remove feed ramp screw.
E. Remove feed ramp from hop up.
F. Slide the hop up chamber off the front of the barrel.
G. Remove the click dial from the barrel. This piece is responsible for keeping the hop up where it is set.
WARNING!! There is a tiny metal BB that applies the hop up to the bucking. Make sure you DO NOT lose it. If the metal bb is lost there will be no hop up!
H. SLOWLY remove the hop up ring.
Here are the bucking, bb, and barrel. Note that on the bucking there is a small hole for the metal bb to be placed.
Hop up reassembly
Step 1. Reinstall bucking onto barrel.
A. I couldn't get a picture for this, but it's simple. Make sure to line up the nub on the bucking with the cut out on the barrel. The bb indent should be on top of the barrel.
B. CAREFULLY reinstall metal bb into chamber. Make sure to use your finger to hold the bb in place and slowly slide the chamber over it.
Step 2. Reinstall the click dial. In this picture you can see the small fins on the chamber that friction fit into the shallow bumps on the click ring.
A. The click ring has a notch on the bottom. Make sure that notch ends up in the notch in the hop up chamber.
Step 3. Reinstall the hop up chamber.
A. Reinstall the barrel retention arm. If it doesn't sit flat try lightly twisting the barrel to make sure the flat spot lines up.
B. Install the screw. Again make sure the retention arm is flat BEFORE you screw it down. DO NOT use the screw to flatten it. There is a small post inside and using the screw can mangle the whole chamber.
C. Reinstall the feed ramp. There is a flat spot on the bucking, make sure it lines up properly with the feed ramp.
Reassembled.
Blowback unit disassembly
The compact I was using was missing a small piece. To make sure the guide was correct I am using the blow back unit from the match. Everything here is the same except slide length.
Step 1. Remove blow back unit from slide.
A. Remove the allen head screw.
B. Using a small flat head CAREFULLY pry the on the notch to remove the arm from the slide. This does not need much force and if too much force is applied the arm can be bent which will cause fitment problems.
C. Remove the unit from the slide. The allen head screw tightens into the rear sight. The rear sight will fall off once the screw is removed.
Step 2. Dissasemble blow back unit.
A. Remove these small pieces from the back of the blow back unit. The last part goes into the frame, and may stick there. The allen head screw from the earlier step passes through the hole in the part to the right. Make sure to line everything up properly when re assembling.
B. CAREFULLY remove the two small springs. Again CAREFULLY. These springs are very weak and can easily be bent. There are retention bumps on the posts so use caution with force.
C. Slide the loading nozzle off the blow back unit. I did not remove the power cup for this guide because the screw is loc-tited on and I did not want to disturb it.
Step 3. Dissasemble the loading nozzle.
A. Push out the pin in the center of the body. One end has knurling on one side. Make sure you press it out from the end that does NOT have knurling.
Spring warning! There is a weak spring inside the nozzle. It shouldn't fly out, but be aware of it.
B. Remove the pin completely. The spring and rocket valve will come out. My match has a metal rocket valve from the factory, I'm not sure if all KP45's have metal ones.
Frame disassembly / Trigger replacement
PLEASE study the placement of parts and how they work before you try and disassemble the frame.
Step 1: Remove inner frame from outer body.
Spring warning! The hammer spring is only being held in by this post. Once the post is removed the spring will push out the lanyard loop.
A. Remove hammer spring. Punch out the pin. Hold down the lanyard loop!
Spring warning! There are two small springs and pins that can fly out. The springs are different lengths. They can fly out during many steps, so I will post where they came out during the making of this guide.
B. Push this pin out from this side! The other end is knurled and pushing it through the wrong way will cause damage. This pin holds ALL of the internals together.
Spring warning! Removing the copper colored arm will allow a spring and pin to pop out. Make sure to remove it slowly!
C. Begin slowly removing the copper colored arm on the left side.
Here is the pin and spring that will come out. This is the SHORTER of the two spring/pin combos.
D. Remove the safety/decocking engagement arm.
E. Remove the spacer.
F. Remove the two-piece decocking arms.
These two arms engage each other. There is a pin on the smaller arm which goes into the lower hole. Make sure to remember how these two engage each other.
This part can be tricky. The flat spots are where the arms engage. There are some arms still left in the frame which may get stuck in the flat spots.
G. Remove the safety lever. It should slide out but check for any arms still engaging.
H. At this point my other pin popped out. If your pin has popped out or hasn't yet be ready for it. I will show you where it goes later. It is the LONGER of the two springs.
I. This step can be extremely annoying. Remove the safety lever sleeve.
There some inner arms sill left. One of them will be stuck on the sleeve. In this photo I tried my best to show where to pry to remove it. Push those arms forward while prying the sleeve out.
The sleeve removed.
J. Remove the hammer. The hammer is only held in by the sleeve so it should fall right out.
Spring warning! The longer spring and pin is held down by this arm. If yours popped out already don't worry, but if it is still in the frame it will pop out here.
K. Tilt the trigger bar up.
L. Remove the phillips head screw from the front of the frame.
M. Push the trigger pin out. Here is where the microscopic flat head comes in. Anything small enough should work, it isn't held in with much friction.
Pin removed.
These next few steps are a little tricky. The hammer arm may fall out, no worries. There is a small spring latch that needs fiddling to remove.
N. Remove the spring latch behind the trigger. I had to pry the frame up a little then pull it out. You may get lucky and it pops right out.
Lightly prying. DO NOT pry too hard! That spring latch MUST be removed before the frame will come out.
Spring latch popped. Simply pull it out.
O. Pry the frame out of the body. It should not take much force, but do not pry so hard that something will bend or break. Be care full not to pry on the plastic slide rails as they can easily deform or break.
Step 2. Remove other internal arms.
This is a step I could not do. I tried to hammer out the pin holding in the other arms but it would not budge. Because I was using a customers gun I decided it best to leave it alone. I can't think of a reason to need to remove the arms or spring. In case you do I took some pictures.
The KP45 series is known for a weak trigger. It usually breaks right at the joint. I have heard a real steel USP trigger will fit, and if it does that would be the recommended fix.
Step 3. Remove and replace trigger.
A. Drive out the gold colored tube.
B. Remove trigger and trigger spring.
C. Replace trigger, gold tube, and spring. This step is annoying and I couldn't take a picture of it one handed. I put the trigger spring and trigger in first, then drive the gold tube through the frame and trigger.
D. Put frame mostly back into the body. Make sure the trigger goes in first, then slide the frame backward into the body. Don't push it all the way down yet.
E. Put the trigger arm back on the trigger.
F. Push the frame all the way back into the body.
G. Push the spring lock back in.
H. Put the trigger pin back in.
I. Replace phillips head screw.
J. Put the pin and LONG spring back into the frame.
Here is the best shot I could get of where the pin goes.
K. Pivot the trigger arm back into the frame. I couldn't take a clear picture of this, but the arm has to hold down that LONG spring and pin. Once in it should hold and the spring should not fly out. Sorry I couldn't get a picture.
L. Replace the hammer arm. It simply slides long end down the hole. Nothing holds it in at this point. It may fall out again so be careful during the future steps.
M. Replace the safety arm sleeve and hammer.
N. Replace the spacer on the right side.
O. Replace the two-piece decocking arms. Pay attention to the small post and hole. Make sure they are correctly aligned.
P. Replace the main pin. Note the knurled end and MAKE SURE it goes in the correct way. Again doing it the wrong way will cause damage.
Q. Make sure everything is aligned. Here is how everything should look at this stage.
R. Replace the copper arm, SHORT spring, and pin. You will need to push the arm down toward the frame for the pin to slide in. Only push the pin into the FRAME, not all the way!
Here in where the spring and pin go.
S. Replace the safety/fire/decocking engagement arm.
T. Push the pin ALL the way in. It should end up knurled end in the frame, and the smooth end in the safety/fire/decocking engagement arm. It the knurled end goes into the arm it will chew it up.
U. Replace the hammer spring, lanyard loop, and pin. Make sure the hammer spring goes around the post, and that the other end of the spring ends up in the depression in the lanyard loop.
V. Reassemble it all and make sure it works.
This guide may not be copied and posted on other sites. If you wish to share the information please post a link to this thread.
Welcome to the complete KWA KP45 GBB dissasembly Guide. Before you begin taking your KWA KP45 apart please read the entire guide. There are springs in certain areas that can fly out when a part is removed. To help avoid this and any other confusion please read the whole guide before trying disassemble anything.
I made this guide to help others fix their KWA KP45 GBB pistols. By following this guide you are disassembling your KP45 at your own risk. If you have trouble shoot me a PM and I will be glad to help. But I will not pay for any replacement parts or pieces.
The KP45 series of GBB pistols are not easy to disassemble. I would not recommend trying to disassemble one as a first timer. I tried my best to show each step but these pistols require a lot of trial and error. I STRONGLY[/b][/i] suggest looking at the pistols inner workings before even attempting to disassemble it.
With all that out of the way, lets begin.
Tools needed for complete dissasembly:
- 1 Large phillips head
- 1 Medium phillips head
- 1 Small phillips head
- 1 Large flat head
- 1 Tiny flat head
- 1 Microscopic flat head
- 1 Paid needle nose pliers
- 1 Pair of tweezers
- 1 Set SAE allen wrenches*
- 1 Set metric allen wrenches*
- 1 Hammer
*Out of the four I have worked on the allen sizes have varied. I would suggest having both just to be sure.
Now that you have the tools, you will need the KP45. For most of the guide I will be using a customers KP45 compact which has a broken trigger. The mechanism is the same for the compact and full size. The Match has some very small differences but this guide will work for them as well.
This guide does cover trigger replacement. To replace the trigger the entire frame must be disassembled. Please do not try to skip to the replacement steps, you must follow the complete frame disassemble section.
Basic tear down.
Step 1: Clear the gun. Make sure there are no BB's in the chamber and that the magazine is removed.
Step 2: Remove the slide.
A. Pull the slide back to cock the hammer. Next line the notch in the slide up with the take down lever.
B. Pull the take down lever out of the frame and push the slide forward and off the frame.
Slide dissasembly
Step 1: Remove hop up and barrel assembly, and recoil spring.
A. Pull the recoil spring forward, and tilt the mount upward.
B. Remove the recoil spring assembly.
C. Move the hop up and barrel assembly forward. Then tilt and remove it from the slide.
Hop up disassembly
Step 1: Remove outer barrel
A. Simply pull the inner barrel out of the outer barrel.
Here is the inner barrel and hop up assembly.
B. Remove barrel retention screw.
C. Remove barrel retention bracket.
Note the small hook on top. Make sure to re-hook it when putting it back together.
D. Remove feed ramp screw.
E. Remove feed ramp from hop up.
F. Slide the hop up chamber off the front of the barrel.
G. Remove the click dial from the barrel. This piece is responsible for keeping the hop up where it is set.
WARNING!! There is a tiny metal BB that applies the hop up to the bucking. Make sure you DO NOT lose it. If the metal bb is lost there will be no hop up!
H. SLOWLY remove the hop up ring.
Here are the bucking, bb, and barrel. Note that on the bucking there is a small hole for the metal bb to be placed.
Hop up reassembly
Step 1. Reinstall bucking onto barrel.
A. I couldn't get a picture for this, but it's simple. Make sure to line up the nub on the bucking with the cut out on the barrel. The bb indent should be on top of the barrel.
B. CAREFULLY reinstall metal bb into chamber. Make sure to use your finger to hold the bb in place and slowly slide the chamber over it.
Step 2. Reinstall the click dial. In this picture you can see the small fins on the chamber that friction fit into the shallow bumps on the click ring.
A. The click ring has a notch on the bottom. Make sure that notch ends up in the notch in the hop up chamber.
Step 3. Reinstall the hop up chamber.
A. Reinstall the barrel retention arm. If it doesn't sit flat try lightly twisting the barrel to make sure the flat spot lines up.
B. Install the screw. Again make sure the retention arm is flat BEFORE you screw it down. DO NOT use the screw to flatten it. There is a small post inside and using the screw can mangle the whole chamber.
C. Reinstall the feed ramp. There is a flat spot on the bucking, make sure it lines up properly with the feed ramp.
Reassembled.
Blowback unit disassembly
The compact I was using was missing a small piece. To make sure the guide was correct I am using the blow back unit from the match. Everything here is the same except slide length.
Step 1. Remove blow back unit from slide.
A. Remove the allen head screw.
B. Using a small flat head CAREFULLY pry the on the notch to remove the arm from the slide. This does not need much force and if too much force is applied the arm can be bent which will cause fitment problems.
C. Remove the unit from the slide. The allen head screw tightens into the rear sight. The rear sight will fall off once the screw is removed.
Step 2. Dissasemble blow back unit.
A. Remove these small pieces from the back of the blow back unit. The last part goes into the frame, and may stick there. The allen head screw from the earlier step passes through the hole in the part to the right. Make sure to line everything up properly when re assembling.
B. CAREFULLY remove the two small springs. Again CAREFULLY. These springs are very weak and can easily be bent. There are retention bumps on the posts so use caution with force.
C. Slide the loading nozzle off the blow back unit. I did not remove the power cup for this guide because the screw is loc-tited on and I did not want to disturb it.
Step 3. Dissasemble the loading nozzle.
A. Push out the pin in the center of the body. One end has knurling on one side. Make sure you press it out from the end that does NOT have knurling.
Spring warning! There is a weak spring inside the nozzle. It shouldn't fly out, but be aware of it.
B. Remove the pin completely. The spring and rocket valve will come out. My match has a metal rocket valve from the factory, I'm not sure if all KP45's have metal ones.
Frame disassembly / Trigger replacement
PLEASE study the placement of parts and how they work before you try and disassemble the frame.
Step 1: Remove inner frame from outer body.
Spring warning! The hammer spring is only being held in by this post. Once the post is removed the spring will push out the lanyard loop.
A. Remove hammer spring. Punch out the pin. Hold down the lanyard loop!
Spring warning! There are two small springs and pins that can fly out. The springs are different lengths. They can fly out during many steps, so I will post where they came out during the making of this guide.
B. Push this pin out from this side! The other end is knurled and pushing it through the wrong way will cause damage. This pin holds ALL of the internals together.
Spring warning! Removing the copper colored arm will allow a spring and pin to pop out. Make sure to remove it slowly!
C. Begin slowly removing the copper colored arm on the left side.
Here is the pin and spring that will come out. This is the SHORTER of the two spring/pin combos.
D. Remove the safety/decocking engagement arm.
E. Remove the spacer.
F. Remove the two-piece decocking arms.
These two arms engage each other. There is a pin on the smaller arm which goes into the lower hole. Make sure to remember how these two engage each other.
This part can be tricky. The flat spots are where the arms engage. There are some arms still left in the frame which may get stuck in the flat spots.
G. Remove the safety lever. It should slide out but check for any arms still engaging.
H. At this point my other pin popped out. If your pin has popped out or hasn't yet be ready for it. I will show you where it goes later. It is the LONGER of the two springs.
I. This step can be extremely annoying. Remove the safety lever sleeve.
There some inner arms sill left. One of them will be stuck on the sleeve. In this photo I tried my best to show where to pry to remove it. Push those arms forward while prying the sleeve out.
The sleeve removed.
J. Remove the hammer. The hammer is only held in by the sleeve so it should fall right out.
Spring warning! The longer spring and pin is held down by this arm. If yours popped out already don't worry, but if it is still in the frame it will pop out here.
K. Tilt the trigger bar up.
L. Remove the phillips head screw from the front of the frame.
M. Push the trigger pin out. Here is where the microscopic flat head comes in. Anything small enough should work, it isn't held in with much friction.
Pin removed.
These next few steps are a little tricky. The hammer arm may fall out, no worries. There is a small spring latch that needs fiddling to remove.
N. Remove the spring latch behind the trigger. I had to pry the frame up a little then pull it out. You may get lucky and it pops right out.
Lightly prying. DO NOT pry too hard! That spring latch MUST be removed before the frame will come out.
Spring latch popped. Simply pull it out.
O. Pry the frame out of the body. It should not take much force, but do not pry so hard that something will bend or break. Be care full not to pry on the plastic slide rails as they can easily deform or break.
Step 2. Remove other internal arms.
This is a step I could not do. I tried to hammer out the pin holding in the other arms but it would not budge. Because I was using a customers gun I decided it best to leave it alone. I can't think of a reason to need to remove the arms or spring. In case you do I took some pictures.
The KP45 series is known for a weak trigger. It usually breaks right at the joint. I have heard a real steel USP trigger will fit, and if it does that would be the recommended fix.
Step 3. Remove and replace trigger.
A. Drive out the gold colored tube.
B. Remove trigger and trigger spring.
C. Replace trigger, gold tube, and spring. This step is annoying and I couldn't take a picture of it one handed. I put the trigger spring and trigger in first, then drive the gold tube through the frame and trigger.
D. Put frame mostly back into the body. Make sure the trigger goes in first, then slide the frame backward into the body. Don't push it all the way down yet.
E. Put the trigger arm back on the trigger.
F. Push the frame all the way back into the body.
G. Push the spring lock back in.
H. Put the trigger pin back in.
I. Replace phillips head screw.
J. Put the pin and LONG spring back into the frame.
Here is the best shot I could get of where the pin goes.
K. Pivot the trigger arm back into the frame. I couldn't take a clear picture of this, but the arm has to hold down that LONG spring and pin. Once in it should hold and the spring should not fly out. Sorry I couldn't get a picture.
L. Replace the hammer arm. It simply slides long end down the hole. Nothing holds it in at this point. It may fall out again so be careful during the future steps.
M. Replace the safety arm sleeve and hammer.
N. Replace the spacer on the right side.
O. Replace the two-piece decocking arms. Pay attention to the small post and hole. Make sure they are correctly aligned.
P. Replace the main pin. Note the knurled end and MAKE SURE it goes in the correct way. Again doing it the wrong way will cause damage.
Q. Make sure everything is aligned. Here is how everything should look at this stage.
R. Replace the copper arm, SHORT spring, and pin. You will need to push the arm down toward the frame for the pin to slide in. Only push the pin into the FRAME, not all the way!
Here in where the spring and pin go.
S. Replace the safety/fire/decocking engagement arm.
T. Push the pin ALL the way in. It should end up knurled end in the frame, and the smooth end in the safety/fire/decocking engagement arm. It the knurled end goes into the arm it will chew it up.
U. Replace the hammer spring, lanyard loop, and pin. Make sure the hammer spring goes around the post, and that the other end of the spring ends up in the depression in the lanyard loop.
V. Reassemble it all and make sure it works.
