Post by Knief on Dec 5, 2007 17:02:04 GMT -5
I believe I have all of the work credited properly. Somebody correct me if I've miss you.
AEG Lubrication
Both lubricants you need for the gearbox (one for the piston, the other for the gears) can be purchased at Radio Shack. They should carry both the lube gel and white lithium grease in small tubes. The gel label reads:
Multi-Purpose Lube Gel
Use the lube gel on the inside of the cylinder, for piston lubrication, and on the grooves in the gearbox that keep the piston aligned with the cylinder. You may also use the gel on the spring guide, where the spring contacts it. A good rule of thumb... you may apply the gel directly around and on the spring,piston cylinder assembly. Make sure not to over apply on the front face of the piston head, or you'll be shooting gel down the inner barrel. While this may seem like a good idea, its not.
The white lithium grease label reads:
Panef
White Lithium Grease
Multi-Purpose Lubricant
Apply the white lithium grease on all gear faces, teeth, spacers and inside bushings. A heavy coat should be applied to gear faces and teeth, but don't put too much in the bushings or you'll soon find that it can, and will, squeeze out.
Each tube will cost you approximately $3's, but should last a very, very, very, very, very, long time.
If you want to go overkill you can also apply a very, very light coat of dielectric compound to the mating trigger switch contacts and selector plate contact (depending on which gearbox you have). Dielectric compound helps prevent corrosion of electrical contacts from water and reduces oxidation. Its really not necessary, but sometimes its nice to know you've done a little extra.
Radio Shack should carry this too, but if not, it will definitely be at your local hardware or auto parts store. You only need the small tube, don't get the jar.
~Frostee
Be sure to use 100% pure silicone, either in gel or liquid form depending on the application, on any parts that contact rubber. Other lubricants, specifically those that contain petroleum distillates are corrosive to rubber, and will eat the parts.
For gas guns, the best lube to use is light weight R/C car shock oil. You can get it at your local hobby store for a few bucks a bottle and it's 100% pure silicone. Find the lightest weight you can, somewhere between 5 and 20 is ideal, but 30-40 will work if that's the best you can do. Lube up wherever things move. That includes the slide rails on the frame and the slide, the trigger, safety, and hammer mechanisms, and anywhere that looks like it could use some lubrication. In some applications, white lithium grease or heavier silicone gel is best. The sear mechanism on 1911s is a great example. Use your discretion, and be sure not to get anything but 100% silicone on anything rubber.
~Knief
Fixing Body Tabs on an M4 Receiver
I got my M733 and opened it up to have a look around inside and snapped one of the tabs. I was pissed. I haven't even had a chance to shoot it, and now my gun is broken. So I decided to fix it. Now it is holding together fine.
You need all the pieces of the tab, if you lost some you can probably use something plastic as filler.
Glue all the pieces back together like they should be. Once that is done, get some thin brass wire and make a loop that will go through the pieces of the tab and also into the unbroken part of the upper. Then whip out your handy soldering iron and heat the brass wire so that it sinks completely into the tab pieces and upper. Do any cosmetic clean up that you want on the tab after the plastic has cooled and you are done.
~Snoopy
Mag Assembly Tip
I was having trouble putting my TM MP-5 mag back together, and just wanted to share this tip with everyone.
Instead of fighting with the spring, I used some light craft wire (A twist tie with the paper removed would work well too) to hold the spring in place.
Now that the spring isn't going anywhere, put the other mag half in place and LIGHTLY tighten down the screws, pull out the wire, and finish assembly.
I lost the spring for the BB retainer, admits all my foul language. I took a cheap clicker pen apart. the spring inside was slightly larger than the original, but still fit. I just cut it off at about 1/4 inch, and works well
Hope this saves you some headaches
~El Phantasamo
_____________________
what works for me is:
After cleaning the magazine, i put the halves together with one screw near the middle... (Spring loaded retainer and that skinny spacer are the only things in the mag at this point..)
now, just put the main mag spring in like you'd load BBs....
then put the follower in... (the plastic will bend just enough to allow it...)
and tighten down the screws...presto.
~Bigmack
Shimming Guide
SHIMMING GUIDE: taken from wajoegween
AEG: Shimming
1) Preparation - Remove everything from the mechbox that will get in the way of getting to the gears. This includes the spring/piston/cylinder assembly, and then it depends on the gear box. With version two mechboxes, the little safety lever needs to be removed so that the selector plate can be slide forward and off. Now there should be only the trigger assembly left in place. With other versions, other parts may or may not need to be removed. When checking shimming, do not install the anti-reversal latch, motor or anything else that may restrict the gears movements in either forwards or backwards.
2) Shims and Bushings
[note: I speak only of Systema shims. I am not familiar with stock or other shims. For simplicity, I always replace all shims with Systema ones.]
There are three different sizes of shims, 0.5mm, 0.3mm, and 0.2mm thickness. There are two different diameters of shims, the small and the large. Of the two smaller diameter shims, they are noticeably different in thickness. They are the .2mm and .5mm thick shims. The large diameter shims are the .3mm thick ones. Since your reading this guide, your are most likely replacing the bushings. If the replacements are solid metal they will be a tight fit. I first try pressuring them into place by pushing with my thumb really hard. If it does not pop into place, I take something soft and tap it into place. Most commonly I end up lightly hammering them in using the plastic handle of a screw driver. Make sure to force the bushings into place EVENLY! If you are replacing the stock bushings with bearing bushings, they will be a loose fit, and it is easier to put them on the gears than to try to make them stay in place on the mechbox. Don't worry about how unstable the bearings feel, they will be plenty beefy when the mechbox is together.
3) Spur Gear
On the bottom(left) side of the gear, place a single .3mm shim. With the Fa-Mas, it might be necessary to have more shims than any other mechbox. With my only Fa-Mas shimming experience, I had to use two .3mm shims on that side, and generally a lot of shims all around. Put the gear into its place, and put the top(right) half of the mechbox on, and just hold them together tightly with your hands. Push the axle with a tooth pick or something similar, and note about how much it moves. Now it's just a game of guess and check with shims on the top(right) part of the spur gear. Once you think you have it just right, with little to no movement, put in three or four screws to make sure its held tightly(more than your hand can do). It should have very little or no movement side to side, AND you should be able to reach a finger in through the empty cylinder hole and freely spin the gear. If there is too many shims on the upper axle part, it will have resistance or be completely stuck. If there are too few shims, it will turn freely but have too much side to side movement.
4) Bevel Gear
Start with the bottom(left) half of the mechbox including the shimmed spur gear. Place two .2mm shims on the bottom(left) part of the axle and put it in its place in the bottom(left) half of the mechbox. Check for clearance between the teeth of the spur gear that mesh with the normal teeth of the bevel gear and the notched part that the anti reversal latch rides on.* If they interfere with each other, then the bevel gear needs more shims on the bottom(left). If there is ample clearance (unlikely), you may want to drop it down to a single .3mm shim. The idea here is: You do not want to compromise the gears' teeth because of the bevel gear having too many bottom(left) shims leading to minimal gear tooth surface contact between gears, but at the same time you don't want the anti-reversal latch contact area to be grinding with the spur gear. OK, enough rambling. Throw the right side on and check for movement the same way you did for the spur gear. Then guess and check, put in a few screws and do the final spin check with the two gears. Re-adjust and re-test as needed.
5) Sector Gear
Almost exactly like the bevel gear, start with the bottom(left) half of the mechbox including the shimmed spur gear and bevel gear. Place one .2mm shim and one .5mm shim on the bottom(left) part of the axle. Check for clearance.* This time you want to make sure the large diameter part of the spur gear is not going to be binding with the teeth on the sector gear that engage the spur gear on it's smaller diameter part.
*A general note about gear clearance: Remember that when the mechbox is together, the gears will not be able to twist(axels slightly off of parallel) relative to each other, so when checking the clearance, you may see interference that should not be there since you only have one half of the mechbox on. Make sure to not accidentally over shim the bottom(right) side of the bevel or sector gears because of this.
~Nevermore
AEG Lubrication
Both lubricants you need for the gearbox (one for the piston, the other for the gears) can be purchased at Radio Shack. They should carry both the lube gel and white lithium grease in small tubes. The gel label reads:
Multi-Purpose Lube Gel
Use the lube gel on the inside of the cylinder, for piston lubrication, and on the grooves in the gearbox that keep the piston aligned with the cylinder. You may also use the gel on the spring guide, where the spring contacts it. A good rule of thumb... you may apply the gel directly around and on the spring,piston cylinder assembly. Make sure not to over apply on the front face of the piston head, or you'll be shooting gel down the inner barrel. While this may seem like a good idea, its not.
The white lithium grease label reads:
Panef
White Lithium Grease
Multi-Purpose Lubricant
Apply the white lithium grease on all gear faces, teeth, spacers and inside bushings. A heavy coat should be applied to gear faces and teeth, but don't put too much in the bushings or you'll soon find that it can, and will, squeeze out.
Each tube will cost you approximately $3's, but should last a very, very, very, very, very, long time.
If you want to go overkill you can also apply a very, very light coat of dielectric compound to the mating trigger switch contacts and selector plate contact (depending on which gearbox you have). Dielectric compound helps prevent corrosion of electrical contacts from water and reduces oxidation. Its really not necessary, but sometimes its nice to know you've done a little extra.
Radio Shack should carry this too, but if not, it will definitely be at your local hardware or auto parts store. You only need the small tube, don't get the jar.
~Frostee
Be sure to use 100% pure silicone, either in gel or liquid form depending on the application, on any parts that contact rubber. Other lubricants, specifically those that contain petroleum distillates are corrosive to rubber, and will eat the parts.
For gas guns, the best lube to use is light weight R/C car shock oil. You can get it at your local hobby store for a few bucks a bottle and it's 100% pure silicone. Find the lightest weight you can, somewhere between 5 and 20 is ideal, but 30-40 will work if that's the best you can do. Lube up wherever things move. That includes the slide rails on the frame and the slide, the trigger, safety, and hammer mechanisms, and anywhere that looks like it could use some lubrication. In some applications, white lithium grease or heavier silicone gel is best. The sear mechanism on 1911s is a great example. Use your discretion, and be sure not to get anything but 100% silicone on anything rubber.
~Knief
Fixing Body Tabs on an M4 Receiver
I got my M733 and opened it up to have a look around inside and snapped one of the tabs. I was pissed. I haven't even had a chance to shoot it, and now my gun is broken. So I decided to fix it. Now it is holding together fine.
You need all the pieces of the tab, if you lost some you can probably use something plastic as filler.
Glue all the pieces back together like they should be. Once that is done, get some thin brass wire and make a loop that will go through the pieces of the tab and also into the unbroken part of the upper. Then whip out your handy soldering iron and heat the brass wire so that it sinks completely into the tab pieces and upper. Do any cosmetic clean up that you want on the tab after the plastic has cooled and you are done.
~Snoopy
Mag Assembly Tip
I was having trouble putting my TM MP-5 mag back together, and just wanted to share this tip with everyone.
Instead of fighting with the spring, I used some light craft wire (A twist tie with the paper removed would work well too) to hold the spring in place.
Now that the spring isn't going anywhere, put the other mag half in place and LIGHTLY tighten down the screws, pull out the wire, and finish assembly.
I lost the spring for the BB retainer, admits all my foul language. I took a cheap clicker pen apart. the spring inside was slightly larger than the original, but still fit. I just cut it off at about 1/4 inch, and works well
Hope this saves you some headaches
~El Phantasamo
_____________________
what works for me is:
After cleaning the magazine, i put the halves together with one screw near the middle... (Spring loaded retainer and that skinny spacer are the only things in the mag at this point..)
now, just put the main mag spring in like you'd load BBs....
then put the follower in... (the plastic will bend just enough to allow it...)
and tighten down the screws...presto.
~Bigmack
Shimming Guide
SHIMMING GUIDE: taken from wajoegween
AEG: Shimming
1) Preparation - Remove everything from the mechbox that will get in the way of getting to the gears. This includes the spring/piston/cylinder assembly, and then it depends on the gear box. With version two mechboxes, the little safety lever needs to be removed so that the selector plate can be slide forward and off. Now there should be only the trigger assembly left in place. With other versions, other parts may or may not need to be removed. When checking shimming, do not install the anti-reversal latch, motor or anything else that may restrict the gears movements in either forwards or backwards.
2) Shims and Bushings
[note: I speak only of Systema shims. I am not familiar with stock or other shims. For simplicity, I always replace all shims with Systema ones.]
There are three different sizes of shims, 0.5mm, 0.3mm, and 0.2mm thickness. There are two different diameters of shims, the small and the large. Of the two smaller diameter shims, they are noticeably different in thickness. They are the .2mm and .5mm thick shims. The large diameter shims are the .3mm thick ones. Since your reading this guide, your are most likely replacing the bushings. If the replacements are solid metal they will be a tight fit. I first try pressuring them into place by pushing with my thumb really hard. If it does not pop into place, I take something soft and tap it into place. Most commonly I end up lightly hammering them in using the plastic handle of a screw driver. Make sure to force the bushings into place EVENLY! If you are replacing the stock bushings with bearing bushings, they will be a loose fit, and it is easier to put them on the gears than to try to make them stay in place on the mechbox. Don't worry about how unstable the bearings feel, they will be plenty beefy when the mechbox is together.
3) Spur Gear
On the bottom(left) side of the gear, place a single .3mm shim. With the Fa-Mas, it might be necessary to have more shims than any other mechbox. With my only Fa-Mas shimming experience, I had to use two .3mm shims on that side, and generally a lot of shims all around. Put the gear into its place, and put the top(right) half of the mechbox on, and just hold them together tightly with your hands. Push the axle with a tooth pick or something similar, and note about how much it moves. Now it's just a game of guess and check with shims on the top(right) part of the spur gear. Once you think you have it just right, with little to no movement, put in three or four screws to make sure its held tightly(more than your hand can do). It should have very little or no movement side to side, AND you should be able to reach a finger in through the empty cylinder hole and freely spin the gear. If there is too many shims on the upper axle part, it will have resistance or be completely stuck. If there are too few shims, it will turn freely but have too much side to side movement.
4) Bevel Gear
Start with the bottom(left) half of the mechbox including the shimmed spur gear. Place two .2mm shims on the bottom(left) part of the axle and put it in its place in the bottom(left) half of the mechbox. Check for clearance between the teeth of the spur gear that mesh with the normal teeth of the bevel gear and the notched part that the anti reversal latch rides on.* If they interfere with each other, then the bevel gear needs more shims on the bottom(left). If there is ample clearance (unlikely), you may want to drop it down to a single .3mm shim. The idea here is: You do not want to compromise the gears' teeth because of the bevel gear having too many bottom(left) shims leading to minimal gear tooth surface contact between gears, but at the same time you don't want the anti-reversal latch contact area to be grinding with the spur gear. OK, enough rambling. Throw the right side on and check for movement the same way you did for the spur gear. Then guess and check, put in a few screws and do the final spin check with the two gears. Re-adjust and re-test as needed.
5) Sector Gear
Almost exactly like the bevel gear, start with the bottom(left) half of the mechbox including the shimmed spur gear and bevel gear. Place one .2mm shim and one .5mm shim on the bottom(left) part of the axle. Check for clearance.* This time you want to make sure the large diameter part of the spur gear is not going to be binding with the teeth on the sector gear that engage the spur gear on it's smaller diameter part.
*A general note about gear clearance: Remember that when the mechbox is together, the gears will not be able to twist(axels slightly off of parallel) relative to each other, so when checking the clearance, you may see interference that should not be there since you only have one half of the mechbox on. Make sure to not accidentally over shim the bottom(right) side of the bevel or sector gears because of this.
~Nevermore