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Post by MayhemXXXFrosty (AndrewMp5k) on Sept 12, 2005 14:26:06 GMT -5
I have a 9.6v 3300 mAh, and it's a beast (HUGE). Won't fit in a Mp5 Stock, and barely in an M16 Stock. Also, for an M130, you will need to reinforce your gearbox, get new gears, piston/piston head, spring guide, the whole works. An M130 with just bushings will break before you can get through a full Hi-Cap.
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Post by RichieRich on Sept 12, 2005 15:11:34 GMT -5
ok changed it up a bit. But Im not puting a large battery in the stock im puting it in the JUST Large Tactical Foregrip, says it fits the 9.6v 1700mah good but I thought maybe it could fit somthing a little bigger.
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Post by El Phantasamo on Sept 12, 2005 15:24:32 GMT -5
ok changed it up a bit. But Im not puting a large battery in the stock im puting it in the JUST Large Tactical Foregrip, says it fits the 9.6v 1700mah good but I thought maybe it could fit somthing a little bigger. The 9.6V 1700mAh is a big as you're gonna get with A Ni-Cad battery. It should be plenty for a full day of skirmishing. Ive got a 8.4 1800mAh in my G3, and gone through several Hi Caps in an afternoon, never having battery issues.
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Post by MayhemXXXFrosty (AndrewMp5k) on Sept 12, 2005 16:57:15 GMT -5
I am saying that with a 9.6v 3300mah, it's a HUGE battery, and won't fit even in some full stocks. So I agree with El, a 1700mAh is enough for a full day, plus if it says that it can fit up to a 1700mAh, they usually mean that's the biggest battery you can fit without Modification (unless otherwise stated). And also, even with an M120, you will need new gears and the whole she-bam still. Even with a M110 (referring to Prometheus's MS110), it would be wise to do a full upgrade (gears, piston/head,spring guide, bushings, though you don't need a reinforced gearbox shell). And for an M120+ you should really consider a reinforced gearbox shell. An M120, a reinforced gearbox shell isn't necessary for V3+ gearboxes, but an M130+ it is a must. An M100 you can get away with just bushings or bearings, but anything above won't last you as long. Remember, if you upgrade past I believe it is 450fps on an AEG, it has to be modified to Semi Auto ONLY to accompany MiA FPS Regulations. And also a tip, AEGs aren't a great upgrade platform to become a sniper rifle. You shouldn't really upgrade past 450 really, because your gearbox will break on you in a very short time. AEGs just weren't meant, durability wise, to become snipers.
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Post by Gestapo on Sept 12, 2005 17:04:33 GMT -5
uh.... I think knief has been running his MP5k at 400 FPS on stock gears and I think only bushings for 2 years.
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Post by MayhemXXXFrosty (AndrewMp5k) on Sept 12, 2005 17:34:19 GMT -5
I am saying, it is wiser to upgrade with reinforced parts. Your gun will run cleaner, smoother, and better.
My M4A1 RIS is upgraded to 400fps with just a spring, it sounds like crap everytime I fire it, and the ROF is slow even with a 9.6v. On the other hand, my teammate Chris has his gun upgraded to 400fps with gears, piston/piston head, bushings, ect and his gun sounds very silent and smooth and clean and has one of the highest ROFs with a 9.6v I have seen.
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Post by RichieRich on Sept 12, 2005 18:11:20 GMT -5
hum ok Iv heard of many people using m120s with just metal bushings, so i might slowly upgrade my gearbox over time. Might just do M120,bushings mayby gears to start. Heres an upgrade chart. I think it should be fine. www.21stcenturyairsoft.com/springguide.php
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Post by Knief on Sept 12, 2005 18:14:57 GMT -5
Gestapo, that's 365 fps for three years with only the spring and the bushings.
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Post by MayhemXXXFrosty (AndrewMp5k) on Sept 12, 2005 19:08:54 GMT -5
See, that would be approximately an MS110. Not an M120. And that is fine to run with it. But Combat Depot has a better chart Richie Rich: combatdepot.com/?pg=springSystema Spring (M120) | FPS *0.20g BB* (392.4) | Minimum Battery (8.4v) | Stock Mechbox Shell | Metal Bushings | Torque-up gears | Bore-up Cylinder (Maybe). That's recommended for an M120.
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Post by Grunto on Sept 12, 2005 20:57:39 GMT -5
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Post by Knief on Sept 12, 2005 21:43:24 GMT -5
It's actually a PDI 150% spring. People really need to stop guessing on what I've got.
Richie, What you really need to understand is that any upgrade you perform on your gun will decrease the life. The strength of the upgrade and the care taken while installing the parts is what's going to determine how long your gun will last. As soon as you crack open the mech box, you've lost some life before your first catastrophic failure. If you install a 130% or M100 spring, you've lost some more life. If you step it up to a 170% or an M120, you lose even more life. Your gun isn't going to blow up on you the first time you pull the trigger, no matter what spring you put in it (the motor shouldn't be able to pull back a spring that will do that). What you should do is get a moderate upgrade (if you really think you need to get one at all. I mean, you have a short barreled gun with large capacity mags, why not juice up the ROF instead and make it a bb hose? You should figure out what kind of player you're going to be before you spend the money on an upgrade that you don't need). If you stay below 350 fps, you won't exclude yourself from CQB events that follow MiA rules (most do). If you keep your gun at or below 350 fps, you shouldn't need to add anything but the spring and a set of metal bushings. Then, if something does fail some time down the road (and that may not happen for a long, long time, just look at my gun), you replace it when you need to. If it's not broke, don't fix it, you know? You wouldn't change the tires on your car after 1000 miles just because you're driving 80 mph instead of 55, would you?
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Post by RichieRich on Sept 12, 2005 22:33:12 GMT -5
Ok thanks a bunch I think I shall go with a 150% and some bushings then.
Also Im planing on geting a 200mm silencer and I want to put an Inner barrel through as much of it as I can. I have the MC-51 outer barrel lenght + the Silencer length 285mm+200mm= 485mm. Longest inner barrel I beleve I could put in is a 472mm (famas Lenght). But what im debating is weather to get a 6.04 or a 6.03. Is there that much of a difference? Corect me If im wrong on this!
sorry about all the noob questions, Thanks for all the help!
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Post by MayhemXXXFrosty (AndrewMp5k) on Sept 12, 2005 22:38:08 GMT -5
It's actually a PDI 150% spring. People really need to stop guessing on what I've got. Richie, What you really need to understand is that any upgrade you perform on your gun will decrease the life. The strength of the upgrade and the care taken while installing the parts is what's going to determine how long your gun will last. As soon as you crack open the mech box, you've lost some life before your first catastrophic failure. If you install a 130% or M100 spring, you've lost some more life. If you step it up to a 170% or an M120, you lose even more life. Your gun isn't going to blow up on you the first time you pull the trigger, no matter what spring you put in it (the motor shouldn't be able to pull back a spring that will do that). What you should do is get a moderate upgrade (if you really think you need to get one at all. I mean, you have a short barreled gun with large capacity mags, why not juice up the ROF instead and make it a bb hose? You should figure out what kind of player you're going to be before you spend the money on an upgrade that you don't need). If you stay below 350 fps, you won't exclude yourself from CQB events that follow MiA rules (most do). If you keep your gun at or below 350 fps, you shouldn't need to add anything but the spring and a set of metal bushings. Then, if something does fail some time down the road (and that may not happen for a long, long time, just look at my gun), you replace it when you need to. If it's not broke, don't fix it, you know? You wouldn't change the tires on your car after 1000 miles just because you're driving 80 mph instead of 55, would you? I meant you would be hitting near the equivelant of an MS110 (See arnie's Spring Chart for Reference). They are only around 20fps in difference I think, so I was close, but a little off I do admit. And so I apologize for guessing your spring. Anyhow, a 6.03 will give you a tighter grouping then a 6.04 supposedly, if I am correct.
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Post by Knief on Sept 12, 2005 22:45:39 GMT -5
Well, you might be really close on that barrel length estimation. I would take off about 10mm for the threading on the silencer, maybe even a bit more. So you might really be at 470-475mm rather than 485mm. I would drop it back to either the barrel of a G3 (469mm) or even an AK (455mm). 20mm isn't going to make any difference in terms of the accuracy you actually see on the field, and would probably only make a minimal difference if you fired from a bench. It's better to be safe and get a 455mm barrel than to push it and have 5mm sticking out past your silencer. Plus, if the barrel is far enough back in your silencer, you won't be able to see it from the front of the gun and that just looks cooler.
As for 6.04 vs. 6.03, there really isn't enough of a difference to justify the price tag of the 6.03. Stick with a systema BS 6.04 tightbore barrel. It's half the price and practically the same performance. Plus, you won't have to worry about jams as much. Either way, don't skimp on quality bbs, but you get a little more leeway with a 6.04mm barrel.
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Post by RichieRich on Sept 14, 2005 13:30:59 GMT -5
Ok thanks!
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