leanpocket25
New Member
Sr-16 350 fps w/ accessories
Posts: 515
|
Post by leanpocket25 on Apr 25, 2004 19:44:11 GMT -5
I have just recieved my CA m4 metal body for my sr-16. I needed a metal body and wasnt gonna go spend 150 for a brand new.. I found a used CA metal body for only $50 and its brand new.
Im having a problem with the intallation though.. I have the charging handle installed but i cant get the spring attached to it installed. I have no idea how to hook that and the dust covers up.
Thanks
|
|
|
Post by The Axe Murderer on Jun 4, 2004 18:52:20 GMT -5
I have a question or two about these metal bodies. I keep hearing about how taking apart or upgrading a gun significantly reduces it's life span. Would it be the same if I were to install a metal body? If not I would certainly like to do so.
Also, because I don't feel comfortable doing this myself, does anyone know where I can have someone instal a DTP KAC SR-15 metal reciever as well as a new barrel on a TM SR-16? Also, a rough estimate of how much it would cost?
|
|
|
Post by AHalo on Jun 4, 2004 22:33:41 GMT -5
no it will increase you guns external lifespan. internal upgrades tend to need more maintenance than external.
|
|
Mite
New Member
I'm a pretty little girl
I am a professional pyro. No, seriously, I am.
Posts: 242
|
Post by Mite on Jun 4, 2004 23:02:29 GMT -5
For further clarification of A-Halo's statement (which is correct). Upgrading things inside the Mech Box (the gear box where all the moving parts are) can have a negative impact on AEG trouble free life span and maintenance. A metal body upgrade takes the intact mech box and moves it (unchanged) into a new outer housing (the receiver body of the AEG).
So generally, body changes do not have an impact on AEG life or durability (although the gun durability can improve somewhat since the metal body is stronger than the plastic body).
Mite
|
|
|
Post by AHalo on Jun 4, 2004 23:11:46 GMT -5
yeah i can be vague at times
|
|
|
Post by The Axe Murderer on Jun 5, 2004 11:30:37 GMT -5
Alright, badass. Now I just need to find someone to do it for me . Does 21CA do that kind of stuff?
|
|
|
Post by luke213 on Jun 5, 2004 12:21:38 GMT -5
I believe 21stCA can do just about anything you would like them to do. Now to go one step further in explaining upgrades and duribility.
The main thing to understand with mechboxes is that it has moving parts which are under stress from the spring. Anything with moving parts will eventually break. The stock parts in a mechbox are plenty strong for a stock spring for a really long time, now if you throw in a stronger spring you will see the time the parts last decrease. Now if done correctly you can upgrade everything in a box with new parts and leave your spring stock and you would acctually have a mechbox that will last longer than a stock gun. So mainly I'm saying that depending on spring is really what would change how long your gun will last, though considering stock parts are plenty strong for a stock spring I see no reason to upgrade the other internals without a spring upgrade. So I guess leave it stock unless you want to spend the time and money to keep things running the way they should as with spring upgrades you will have duribility issues moreso than a stock spring.
Luke
|
|
|
Post by Jacko on Jun 23, 2004 18:16:21 GMT -5
Well, new addition to this thread: DTP Ak-47 Metal BodyLooksWell, it's a metal AK body, very similar to the plastic body in shape and size, but it's a gray parkerized finish. Think of concrete and you'll be close. The paint is actually a speckled paint, but that's not too important. What is important is that it looks horrible with the other black parts of the gun. Other than that, the gun has the same markings as the plastic body, in terms of lettering. ConstructionSolid. When Snip handed me the box and said 'Here's your metal body'. I remarked 'You mean my metal club?'. It's a heavy alloy, though still seems like pot metal. The body seemed to be bent in the back, where the stock block (For lack of a better term) would slide between the halves along with the rear of the mechbox. I'll touch on why I think it was bent later, but obviously, this could've just been my body since it got shipped with a ton of other stuff. InstallationUgh. Installing this body was/is a pain. Before I get into the problem I experienced, here are some tips: - Remember the small plate with four threaded holes in the bottom of the body. This is what the screws that hold the trigger guard go into. - Don't take apart the fake charging handle mechanism/gearbox cover if you don't have to. I followed the AK manual and this is unecassary for the installation of this body. - You don't need the small metal block that holds the mags in on the plastic body. Also, the body comes with a screw for the plastic peice that covers the gearbox, you don't need the one you already have. So, here's where I hit trouble: The 'stock block' is the piece of metal that rests in the rear of the body, and is held in by four screws, two on other side. The stock slides over this, and is held in by 3 screws. The problem with this peice is that only one side would line up. I couldn't secure the block to the right hand side of the body simply because the screw holes did not align. So, out came the Dremel. After about two hours of work, I had made no progress. The block had had 7 different surfaces ground down to varying degress, and the metal body had the lip that helps keep the block in ground down as well. I noticed that the sides of the block were not perfectly aligned with the hole in the back of the body. The block pulled away from the left side of the body and the top of the block wasn't flush either. That's why I think the body is bent. Eventually, I decided to see if the gun would go back together anyways, and thankfully, it did. It shoots fine since the gearbox was still aligned with the hop-up in the front of the gun. ConclusionIt's a nice solid peice of kit, I just hope mine was a fluke. It certainly makes the replica heavier and feels more sturdy in my hands, but the color is horrendous. Here's a comparison.
|
|
|
Post by Grunto on Nov 18, 2004 23:53:10 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Knife on Jan 7, 2005 18:33:22 GMT -5
I just put on my G&P metal body and I ran into very few problems. The mains I had were: The screw on the mag release, I couldn't find the right size allen wrench. I even went to home depot and bought another set. What I did in the end was the screw was stripped enough that the wrench finally fit. Second, the original shell for the gearbox had a little notch on the top which wasn't letting me slide the top part of the gun on. I ended up filing htis down since i did not want to risk opening up the gun. If you go my way, be very very careful as to not get any of the metal filings inside the gearbox.
Those are the only real problems i had but once i get the gun ready to fire we shall see if that was really all...
Edit: Well I ran into a huge problem. the regular TM gearbox shell is out of line with the pin holes for the G&P body. MAKE SURE TO PUT ON THE SHELL THAT HOUSES THE GEARBOX THAT G&P gives you. Or else you will have to start all over. I will be sending my gun to 21CA in a few days to get it fixed.
|
|
|
Post by Grunto on Feb 8, 2005 22:47:44 GMT -5
Well, I have my G&P metal body here and I am like 60% done with everything, but it seems like there is stuff that is missing, but I have not lost any pieces and the manual does not help one bit with this.
First of all, the part that comes back to reveal the hopup unit when you pull the charging handle back, well... there is like nothing that holds it in place at all. I checked over the TM body like 10 times, and everything is just solid plastic and there are basically no more removable parts.
The second thing I noticed was that the dust cover that came with my metal body is a little really thin piece of metal that has nothing to hold it in the "covered" position so that it hides the bolt and all that.
And third, after going over this thread again... was I supposed to recieve a gearbox shell too with the body itself?
I am completely stumped on all of this. I have absolutely no clue at all what to do. If someone could just help me with this on AIM or even PM's would be ok. I just need some help here.
|
|
Mite
New Member
I'm a pretty little girl
I am a professional pyro. No, seriously, I am.
Posts: 242
|
Post by Mite on Feb 9, 2005 12:14:50 GMT -5
You don't get a gear box/mech box with a metal body. You just get the upper and lower halfs of the outer receiver.
If I have time I'll attempt to address your other items later, I just don't have the spare time right now.
Mite
|
|
|
Post by Knife on Feb 9, 2005 15:35:59 GMT -5
You don't get the full gearbox, but you do get the shell. I got one when I ordered mine I got one, its two halves that hold all of the stuff inside. I don't know the name of it exactly but here is a picture of what it is. Take note that this is not the one I recieved from G&P. This one is just a picture I found on UNCo. For the dust cover(inside piece), nothing holds it in essentialy. What I had to do before I ran into other problems was I set it over the spot and then slid the top half on. The gearbox held it in place. The outside dust cover does not hold itself in place. On the regular TM body there is that little nubbin that pushes in and out to hold it in. Just look on the original TM one to see. On the G&P one, it does not hold itself in and will always just flop around. What I plan on doing once I finally send my gun to 21CA is just to use scotch or duct tape to tape it there and remove the tap when I need to get to the hop up. All my experiences are with the Marine Corps. one, but I do not believe that there is much of a difference besides the trademarks.
|
|
|
Post by Grunto on Feb 9, 2005 20:46:38 GMT -5
Yeah, I said shell and I know what one looks like. I have opened up my gun many many times and cleaned everything out quite a few times. So I know what pretty much everything is except for like some terms.
You say that you just slid your gearbox in with the fake bolt piece just sitting there? Does it come back at all and move forward when you pull the charging handle? Because it seems that if it were to just sit there and still be solid in its spot you would not be able to pull that back to reveal the hopup without it hitting something like a screw on the gearbox.
I know what the dust cover looks like on the TM series and I do know about the little pieces that hold it all closed and everything. But did yours come with just the little rod to hold it, the spring, the small piece that acts like a nut, and the dust cover itself? And you just leave it sitting there to move around freely and make noise?
Oh yeah, and am I supposed to file down a bunch of things to get everything to fit? Like the outer barrel? Because it does not properly fit. And on the bottom of the charging handle?
I feel like I wasted a great deal of money on this metal body. Nothing fits the same at all. And the dust cover is a little thin piece of metal that feels very flimsy and there are like rust spots on it.
|
|
HnD
New Member
Posts: 766
|
Post by HnD on Feb 9, 2005 22:00:05 GMT -5
If you have a digital camera take pictures of where you are at so far. charging handle and everything. we can help you from that point.
|
|