T6e9a
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Post by T6e9a on Nov 4, 2014 22:04:51 GMT -5
The sector isn't shimmed too high is it? To where it barely engages or doesn't have a solid engagement with the cutoff lever.
Also make sure the cutoff lever spring is very much there, maybe even stretch it a tiny bit.
I'm drawing a bit of a blank as to what to suggest.
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Post by Tex on Nov 4, 2014 22:24:06 GMT -5
The sector gear is shimmed fairly low, only .15mm of shims on the bottom of it giving it just enough clearance above the spur gear so they don't rub and fully engaging the rack gear on the piston.
The cutoff lever spring is definitely there and in good condition, I'll attempt to stretch it a bit for good measure.
I have ordered a Gate NanoAAB and will be able to just swap that out for the NanoSSR that I have currently installed. I imagine that this will rectify the issue since it will brake the motor as soon as the trolley breaks the circuit after the first cycle thus preventing and over spin from occurring. Once that arrives I will post the results.
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Post by Stinger on Nov 4, 2014 23:35:29 GMT -5
I am not interested in a stronger spring as I would like to keep my full auto capabilities and the m120 spring I am currently using puts me close to the fps limit for that. T6e9a's point was that you can up the spring but then short-stroke the piston to compensate for the increase in FPS. Short-stroking lowers FPS considerably. What most people do with very high-speed setups (especially DSGs) is use very powerful springs (even M190s) to counter overspin, but then short-stroke back down to a desired FPS.
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T6e9a
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Post by T6e9a on Nov 5, 2014 8:27:58 GMT -5
Another gain from running a stronger spring is that it allows the system to be able to cycle even faster, because of how fast the piston gets returned.
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Post by Tex on Nov 5, 2014 9:49:09 GMT -5
It will also add stress into the gearbox, something I am looking to avoid, especially since I will not see the FPS gains from the stronger spring.
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T6e9a
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Post by T6e9a on Nov 5, 2014 14:14:24 GMT -5
Proper radiusing of the cylinder window and a sorbo should be all you need, and if you might still be worried about the stress, then maybe an STS.
But going back to other mechanical solutions, short stroking in combination with the stronger spring, reduces the added stress of the stronger spring, along with a small amount of volume per tooth. as it isn't the full power of a full stroke on the given spring.
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Post by Tex on Nov 5, 2014 15:07:22 GMT -5
I can't put a sorbo in mine unless I swap out the cylinder head and even so, it's not the shell I am concerned about but rather the stock gears and piston rack.
Even if I were to upgrade the spring and short stroke it, I don't see how this would solve the issue. The gears would spin at a slightly slower rate while the piston was engaged by the sector gear, but as soon as it is released forward the gears would then accelerate back to full speed before the cutoff lever would cut of the flow of electricity. Granted this stronger spring might not overspin as much and semi auto functionality might return or at least fail less often but the gears would still be over spinning, right?
Also, a stronger spring = a pain in the dick to get into the gearbox every time you open and close it.
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Post by Stinger on Nov 5, 2014 16:17:57 GMT -5
Even if I were to upgrade the spring and short stroke it, I don't see how this would solve the issue. The gears would spin at a slightly slower rate while the piston was engaged by the sector gear, but as soon as it is released forward the gears would then accelerate back to full speed before the cutoff lever would cut of the flow of electricity. Granted this stronger spring might not overspin as much and semi auto functionality might return or at least fail less often but the gears would still be over spinning, right? The problem is that the motor is applying too much initial force, so the gears have leftover energy to keep spinning. At least, that's what causes overspin in most systems. If your cutoff lever is failing to stop the flow of electricity at the proper time, the motor will continue to accelerate the gears after they release the piston. In that case, you are correct.
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T6e9a
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Post by T6e9a on Nov 5, 2014 16:19:45 GMT -5
Then scratch the stronger spring for now. You say semi is pretty much completely gone?
With just the sector gear, trigger contacts/trolley, everything under that(selector plate, cutoff lever) and trigger in the bottom half of the shell. Also make sure the cutoff lever is engaged(essentially in semi auto)
Pull the trigger, manually rotate the sector, and rotate until the trigger trolley pops. If it doesn't pop, the things to check are: -back side of trigger trolley(especially the little edges and such) -cutoff lever -sector gear cutoff cam
If you went from having semi to not, something had to of happened.
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Post by Stinger on Nov 5, 2014 16:22:29 GMT -5
If you went from having semi to not, something had to of happened. Yes, and ignoring the problem and installing an AB MOSFET is not really the best course of action. Sure, the issue may be fixed by that workaround, but the issue itself is a sign of something wrong.
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Post by Gimpalong on Nov 5, 2014 16:39:38 GMT -5
I know the having to switch to full auto is a bit of a recurring problem with g&p guns. I'm on my third one with the problem. Yup, seems to be a pretty widespread issue. I know at least two of my G&P rifles suffered from this problem.
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Post by Tex on Nov 7, 2014 22:52:51 GMT -5
Just wanted to give you gents an update, the AB Mosfet solved the issue completely. It fires crisp and cycles completely without any over spin with every pull of the trigger in semi.
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