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Post by skipper on Oct 1, 2014 16:45:19 GMT -5
Hello, later this year I am planning on purchasing a VFC SCAR-H SSR, I am planning on turning this gun into a true DMR (semi-auto only, better inner barrel, increased FPS etc.) and am looking for tech advice on things I should upgrade, what parts are most important, what ones work the best in your experience, things I should avoid be careful about or anything else you feel is relevant. I am relatively new to airsoft tech as so far I have only taken apart and worked on V2 and V7 gearbox's and than only for regular maintenance, except I had to swap my friends shattered tappet plate for a new one, so this will be my first time truly upgrading a rifle, let alone making a true DMR (the internet is a wonderful resource to learn things ). However I am a firm believer in doing things yourself but that doesn't mean I am closed to advice, any and all advice/tips is greatly appreciated. I have heard that the piston, self shimming gears, and plastic bushings are all things I need to replace immediately as they are of very low quality. I hope this was clear and understandable of what I am hoping to get, like I said any and all help is greatly appreciated, I would like to add that cost really isn't an object here as I have already saved up a healthy sum to dump on this, as this gun will be my baby. Thank you for your help and hope to see you on the field
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T6e9a
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Post by T6e9a on Oct 1, 2014 17:27:22 GMT -5
What sort of ground performance do you want? Throw out some numbers: -FPS -Range
Semi auto only is an easy mod, especially since it is a V2 gearbox that you will be working with.
The general consensus is that tighter barrel tends to give you better groupings. (Along with needing higher maintenance) As far as range goes there are flat hops(generally easier install) and r-hops which take a bit more to install, but greatly increases the range.
But consistent range is really only achieved with heavier bb weights. I would recommend .32s for very decent path of travel and range.
Internally, you'll want all your compression components to be spot on and as consistant as possible. This generally means: -double O-ring metal cylinder head -O-ring air nozzle -good sealing piston head
Another way to go about getting more power behind the BB would be to have weighted components, such as a full metal piston, piston head, and a heavy spring. As well as a bore up kit, just to maximize the air output. But be warned, with weighted pistons/etc, this puts a LOT of stress on your gearbox shell, and can easily blow the front off.
Ways of preventing this, might be: -Retro Arms gearbox shell -sorbo -radius the cylinder window -STS of sorts(would have to be make shift as I know there is one for M4, but specifically SCAR-H)
But regardless, I'm assuming you will be putting a stronger spring in, and with stuch, a stronger motor is always a good idea. You can get a standard high torque motor just to get the job done, or you can build a Frankentorque motor off of a decent base Neodymium magnet motor for even faster trigger response. I personally like the Matrix Magmun 3000 motors for their simplicity and ease of design. But even as it is stock, it preforms great.
Something that will also aid the cyclic rate of the system, would be to get lower ratio gears. I would recommend 13:1 if you frankentorque(to prevent system heating) or 14:1-16:1if you want to leave the motor be. This isn't something that is required, just another consideration towards an 'ultimate DMR build'.
Through and through, the system will run better(at LEAST cooler temperature wise) with low resistance wiring, such as 16ga wiring. As well as a MOSFET which will prolong the life of your trigger contacts. Wiring to deans will also aid with better connectivity.
For quite an assortment of parts and such, I would recommend looking around on Brillarmory.
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Post by Deacon on Oct 1, 2014 17:35:32 GMT -5
Best way to DMR a gun: Rhop. It's the cheapest mod and most effective.
Worst way: Spend a crap-ton of money on unnecessary upgrades.
Most will say AOE correction and Sorbo. On the VFC Gearboxes the AOE is already corrected. The last tooth on the stock piston is already removed and engages at 1 o'clock. Sorbo is nice but not necessary.(Provided it retains the stock AOE.)
High power springs are also unnecessary and causes a catastrophic fail point.
Get a High torque Motor(Neo magnets), Low ratio gears(around 14:1, lower than this you'll need to add a delayer chip for proper feeding.), Mosfet system, M120/M135 spring, r-hop(barrel inner diameter doesn't matter with this mod. I'd recommend this over anything as the VFC Scar-H Hop is proprietary and is considered poor.) The r-hopped barrel should be made of a sturdier material other than aluminum or brass. Steel barrels bend and warp less and are less prone to the vibrations. Tune it to a heavy weight bb and you'll be in the 250-300 feet range and still be within fps regulations. Get your Compression as close to perfect as possible with a better piston o-ring and a better cylinder head with a double o-ring or use some Teflon tape around the circumference of your stock head. Use o-rings to shim the barrel against the gearbox as well. If I recall correctly the Scar-H Piston/Head is POM and Aluminum. I ran this combo on my VFC 416 for quite awhile with no issue. The combo got moved to my AK when the 416 got a SHS 14 steel tooth rack (blue) lightened and aluminum head.
Oh and better wiring (16ga wet noodle(silicone)) is recommended as well for low resistance.
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Post by skipper on Oct 1, 2014 18:10:57 GMT -5
Thank you both, I hadn't even thought about redoing the wiring. Now range wise I'm looking for 250ft at least, the more the better. As for FPS I'm looking to keep it right around 480, a little lower or higher is fine. Would putting in a r- hop and a tightbore inner barrel get me extra range or would that cause promplems/be a waste of money? Thank you both for helping me already.
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Post by Deacon on Oct 1, 2014 18:20:08 GMT -5
With an R-hop diameter doesn't matter. FPS doesn't matter as much. I can out range people at 405fps with my stock hop up unit and r-hop on a 275mm barrel.
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Post by Squirrel on Oct 1, 2014 18:23:03 GMT -5
An r-hop is a great mod if done correctly. Deacon can speak to the range of the couple r-hops that I've done. The r-hop greatly improves grouping and consistency, in the 200+ foot range, which makes them most desirable for me.
In my opinion, a decent quality brass barrel can shoot very good if polished correctly. I haven't found a high dollar barrel that will give significantly better performance than a 6.04 brass, polished, r-hopped, and flat nubbed. Of course, your gearbox compression and nozzle to bucking compression has to be good for your gun to reach its full potential. T6e9a and Deacon covered gearboxes, so I won't beat a dead horse.
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Post by skipper on Oct 2, 2014 15:01:40 GMT -5
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Snarf
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Post by Snarf on Oct 2, 2014 15:25:00 GMT -5
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T6e9a
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Post by T6e9a on Oct 2, 2014 15:32:30 GMT -5
PSG-1 cylinder head would be for a PSG-1. An M4 or V2 cylinder head would be what you want.
And If you wanted to reduce shipping time/price on everything, you would be better off finding everything on Brill.
SHS gears are very solid, and worth their $20 on brill.
The ZCI motors are really great for a budget motor. They have the torque(22tpa) [on par with a JG bkue] and speed/balanced (which I believe is 18tpa). They go for $30. Go with torque for your build.
The nuke fet I have heard is great and really compact as well. Should suite basic trigger contact protection.
But a note with the VFC SCAR platform, is that the wiring is run through the hinge. This can make it difficult to wire a MOSFET in. I have seen people secure their Nukefets inside the GB shell. Keeps it out of the way, and can wire on as usual.
Just something to consider as MOSFETs are conscerned.
Past that, I believe the rest of the parts are good. I do believe VFC has 8mm, but I could be wrong. But from the bushings I know I pulled from one, they were 8mm.
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Post by skipper on Oct 2, 2014 15:42:14 GMT -5
Oops, forgot to check the cylinder head to thoroughly, thank you. I'm pretty sure that VFC uses 8mm but ill double check. thank you.
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Post by skipper on Oct 2, 2014 15:44:56 GMT -5
Is the cylinder head unique on the gearbox, I'm think the air nozzle is, but I could be wrong.
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T6e9a
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Post by T6e9a on Oct 2, 2014 15:51:10 GMT -5
The air nozzle is specific to the scar. The cylinder head should just be V2, possibly V2 with a longer central nozzle. But V2 should work just fine.
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Post by skipper on Oct 2, 2014 16:03:42 GMT -5
If I go down to the 13:1 SHS gears will I have to get anything extra like a delaying chip?
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T6e9a
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Post by T6e9a on Oct 2, 2014 16:24:40 GMT -5
If it is semi auto only, I wouldn't see it as much of an issue. And you aren't going for a high rate of fire build, so I would say not to worry about it.
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Snarf
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Post by Snarf on Oct 2, 2014 17:30:43 GMT -5
Yeah, a note about SCAR H wiring. The hinged wire thing is a good idea, and it works fine until it breaks (it's pretty delicate if you're not careful). It also complicates any rewiring you might do, because getting into the inner part of the stock is a pain and soldering the spring loaded wire contacts is difficult, to say the least. You will probably end up doing what I did and drill a hole through the back of the body and stock to fit in new wiring. It's not pretty, but it works.
And yes, the Scar h air nozzle is unique to the gun but mine gives perfect air seal without an o-ring.
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