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Post by Timm on Jan 6, 2013 3:14:32 GMT -5
It seems to me like shaving down the disconnector is the only thing you'd have to do.
Also, WE's are globally renowned for being gas hogs. Thats just the way it is.
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Post by Shogun (AKA Basic) on Jan 6, 2013 12:53:38 GMT -5
@timm Do you mean that's all I have to do in addition to what a did? Or do you mean that's all I should've needed to do in the first place?
And as for gas efficiency, it doesn't really bother me. It's a WE.
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drewroud
New Member
Lipo ready hop up unit
Posts: 486
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Post by drewroud on Jan 6, 2013 13:52:37 GMT -5
Technically, shaving down the disconnector should have been the only thing to do. You seem to have taken out a piece that prevents the hammer from locking when the trigger is pulled back. My theory is that when the slide moved back, the hammer didn't lock because you removed a piece and therefore you had the issue with the hammer creating to much friction on the slide for it to move forward.
As for gas efficiency, you should still do the mods. I have heard that some stock kjw's and we's get around 7 shots, and after the mods they will get 40. My own kjw sig p226 improved over 25 shots just from shimming the magazine gasket.
If you shim the magazine gasket, polish the rails, and use white lithium grease, you could easily gain another 20 some shots.
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Simon
New Member
Posts: 379
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Post by Simon on Jan 7, 2013 5:49:29 GMT -5
I modified my WE 1911 HiCapa to automatically double tap. I learned how from a website that, sadly, no longer exists. The proven modification below offers full auto or burst fire capability by reshaping the disconnect bar. That's it. A properly shaped disconnect bar can give any WE (other brand HiCapas not tested) 1911 HiCapa full auto capability right out of the box. Disclaimer: I have not done this in a while, and never perfected it. Getting controlled automatic fire may take two or three tries. All you have to do is modify the disconnect bar, no other parts need to be modified. Light sanding in high wear areas may be beneficial, but I have not had any issues. Here are two outlines of the disconnect bar: The bar to the left is a stock disconnect bar, allowing semi-automatic fire only. The bar to the right will (theoretically) allow fully automatic fire. Remove material from the shaded regions to achieve such a result. Remove material in stages, and test fire between each stage to avoid over-shaping and ruining the disconnect bar. If anyone is interested in just buying a pre-shaped bar, shoot me a PM and I will see what I can do.
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drewroud
New Member
Lipo ready hop up unit
Posts: 486
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Post by drewroud on Jan 7, 2013 15:11:47 GMT -5
How exactly is it modified for burst? I have never had a 1911, but it makes sense that only slight modification should allow full auto. Also, disconnect bar would = trigger bar reset?
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Simon
New Member
Posts: 379
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Post by Simon on Jan 7, 2013 16:30:58 GMT -5
I admit, I'm not entirely sure how it works. However, I did get a two round burst functionality out of mine when I held the trigger and single fire when I let go before the cycle completed. According to the guide I used, I hadn't shaved off enough material to get full-auto. I plan on attempting it again within a couple weeks and will document my efforts. If I hadn't tried it, I would be skeptical too, but I did and it works.
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