Post by edi1st on Aug 16, 2011 19:52:10 GMT -5
Hey guys, this is going to be an intro & upgrade guide for the Classic Army SR-25.
The intro & upgrade guide can also be used for A&K and the original G&P SR-25.
The A&K SR-25 is a straight clone of the CA-25.
The ORIGINAL G&P SR-25 utilizes the same gear box design and parts.
Original = pre-CNC versions, they are really expensive if you want one.
I'm not going to go through the real steel history behind it as a lot of people are familiar with the AR-10/15 family and if you are reading this, you can look it up on World.gun.ru or Wiki.
I got the regular SR-25 version, not the URX.
The gun comes with full stock and a suppressor with trades.
So here are some basic stats about the gun:
Firing Mode: Safe/Semi
Stock FPS: Roughly 420fps
Gear box:
Type: Version 2.5 AKA Elongated Version 2
Cylinder: Elongated Cylinder
Cylinder Head: Standard V2 Cylinder Head
Nozzle: Seems to be a V2 bore up nozzle, can't be sure, but it fits nicely with the cylinder head.
Piston: Elongated Piston
Piston Head: Standard V2 Piston Head
Spring Guide: Standard V2 Spring Guide
Sector Gear: V2.5 Sector Gear
Bevel, Spur Gears: Standard V2 Gears
Bushing: 7mm Metal Bushing
Tappet Plate: V2.5 Tappet Plate
Rest are all standard V2 parts
Barrel: Standard AEG Barrel, runs all the way to near the tip of the outer barrel.
Hop-up: M4/16 Hop
Motor: Long Type Classic Army High Torque Motor
Magazine: SR-25 Magazine (A&K, CA, G&P)
Battery/Wiring: Same as any other M4/16 AEG
Being only 20FPS or so higher than the FPS limit of the limit for most Rifle/SMG/LMG and so on, it doesn't really give you the supposed sniper rifle range advantages.
So upgrades are musts for the gun to be a true sniper rifle.
Let's start from the gear box. (Power)
I'm going to skip some of the basic V2 parts: piston head, cylinder head, trigger assembly/wiring, spring guide
A stronger spring is needed to bring up the FPS.
Due to the use of the V2.5 gear box, standard AEG spring might not perform as well as it should.
It does take springs for the TM PSG-1.
I have not yet tested standard AEG spring vs a TM PSG-1 Spring yet since I don't have any PSG-1 springs.
For regular AEG Spring, personally recommend the Guarder SP170. (170 = 170m/s or about 550fps)
Every spring has what we called "wear down time".
MANY companies advertise their spring's power prior to the wear down time.
However, when you first get the Guarder SP170, it performs more like a SP180.
After the wear down time, it'll perform like a SP170 as it should.
For the Piston,
Matrix CNC piston for PSG-1/L85/SR-25. It's CNC Aluminum.
G&G also made a Nylon one for L85 which is the same for SR-25
The 2nd tooth is pre-cut, well not really, it never existed on the piston.....which is a good thing. It's what you need for correct AoE.
Although G&P did make some, but the production seems to be stopped when they started to make the CNC SR-25.
The Piston has 19, NINETEEN, 十九, dix-neuf, diecinueve teeth, not 14, 15 nor 16, and the body of the piston is longer.
For the cylinder, keep it stock.
CA does make a bore up kit with it, but it's extremely unnecessary.
The stock cylinder has enough air value to propel a BB through a 650mm barrel.
The bore up kit will slow down the FPS due to the increased amount of air that needs to be compressed which will require more energy.
Now to the gears~~~
You HAVE to use V2.5 Sector gears since the piston has 19 teeth.
You can get the CA Super Torque Up Gear set.
Or get a set of CNC gears from RiotSC.
SHS also makes excellent gears for it.
Spur and Bevel gears are standard V2 gears so you can just get any torque up gears for them.
Make sure you do get high quality gears as we are going to pull something like a SP170 spring.
You don't want your gears to strip inside your gear box......it's simply....catastrophic.
Although it does come with metal bushings, I'd still recommend to replace them.
I have the Modify 7mm Steel bushing.
For the Motor, JG Blue Motor, the one with silver/neo magnets; G&P M170/180.
You'll need a battery with a output rate at least 20C.
It is STRONGLY suggested to install a MOSFET.
I HIGHLY recommend the AWS MOSFETs.
No matter what you get, you want a MOSFET that has Active Breaking.
Now we got the power of a sniper rifle, we need the accuracy of one.
A TBB is the most standard upgrade to increase accuracy.
Now you might ask the question: "what diameter should I get?"
It doesn't really matter, but here's the thing.
6.01 is a lot easier to jam.
And you don't want that to happen when your gun is pushing at 550fps.....
Imaging what happens if you plug the cylinder head and pull the trigger.....
What actually matters is the QUALITY of the barrel.
There are reasons why the Prometheus 6.03 TBBs are a lot more popular over many 6.01s.
Here's a list of brand of barrels that I recommend:
Prometheus 6.03
KM TN 6.04
PDI 6.01
Madbull V2 6.03 for low budget
Personally, I'm running the Tanio Koba Twist Barrel.
However, the barrel was designed for guns shooting around 1J.
So it's still in the testing phase.
Now to the Hop-up.
A stable, well built hop up unit is very important.
If you can find a Prometheus Neo hop unit, that's a plus.
If not, get a G&P or KA hop unit
For the bucking, you want a hard bucking.
Using a soft bucking in 400+ fps is really not recommended.
The soft bucking will be prone to break and wear out a lot faster.
I went for the Prometheus hard bucking.
Hop spacer:
This is probably the most important thing for the accuracy.
There are many different types of spacers out there.
If you want something simple, get a concave spacer.
If you want to try, then make a flap-hop or a R-hop.
I'm running R-hop in mine.
You are pretty much set after you've upgrade all of the aforementioned items above.
But here are EVEN MORE MODS that you can do.
Stuffs like adding Sorbo pads, and a couple of Teflon tape mods.
So that's it for my Intro and Upgrade Guide for the Classic Army SR-25.
This is my current setup
Gear Box
AWS Pulse MOSFET
JG Blue Motor with neo mag.
Classic Army Super Torque Up Gear Set for SR-25, since RiotSC is still trying to figure out the production line.
Guarder SP170 Spring, metal spring guide
Modify Steel 7mm bushing
Matrix CNC aluminum piston with unknown brand metal piston head
Stock cylinder, cylinder head, air nozzle
Barrel/Hop
Stock hop unit (ran out of money I have nothing else to say)
G-hop made with some hard rubber and SCS nub (maybe silicon rubber, not sure)
Bucking is currently the stock bucking for testing the G-hop, but have a brand new Prometheus Hard bucking
510mm Tanio Koba Twist Barrel, might have a Prometheus 650mm 6.03 on the way IF I have the money.
Mods
Sorbo pad added
Teflon taped the cylinder head
I stretched out the O-ring first by using the cylinder technic.
Then I put a layer of Teflon tape where the O-ring should go, put the O-ring on, cut the excessive tape.
I might add one more layer on the outside.
Teflon taped the barrel
Used dental floss to tight the bucking
AoE corrected
Special thanks to Soccer77 and Star_folder
And here's my baby
And this is the real JG Blue Neo Magnet motor
The intro & upgrade guide can also be used for A&K and the original G&P SR-25.
The A&K SR-25 is a straight clone of the CA-25.
The ORIGINAL G&P SR-25 utilizes the same gear box design and parts.
Original = pre-CNC versions, they are really expensive if you want one.
I'm not going to go through the real steel history behind it as a lot of people are familiar with the AR-10/15 family and if you are reading this, you can look it up on World.gun.ru or Wiki.
I got the regular SR-25 version, not the URX.
The gun comes with full stock and a suppressor with trades.
So here are some basic stats about the gun:
Firing Mode: Safe/Semi
Stock FPS: Roughly 420fps
Gear box:
Type: Version 2.5 AKA Elongated Version 2
Cylinder: Elongated Cylinder
Cylinder Head: Standard V2 Cylinder Head
Nozzle: Seems to be a V2 bore up nozzle, can't be sure, but it fits nicely with the cylinder head.
Piston: Elongated Piston
Piston Head: Standard V2 Piston Head
Spring Guide: Standard V2 Spring Guide
Sector Gear: V2.5 Sector Gear
Bevel, Spur Gears: Standard V2 Gears
Bushing: 7mm Metal Bushing
Tappet Plate: V2.5 Tappet Plate
Rest are all standard V2 parts
Barrel: Standard AEG Barrel, runs all the way to near the tip of the outer barrel.
Hop-up: M4/16 Hop
Motor: Long Type Classic Army High Torque Motor
Magazine: SR-25 Magazine (A&K, CA, G&P)
Battery/Wiring: Same as any other M4/16 AEG
Being only 20FPS or so higher than the FPS limit of the limit for most Rifle/SMG/LMG and so on, it doesn't really give you the supposed sniper rifle range advantages.
So upgrades are musts for the gun to be a true sniper rifle.
Let's start from the gear box. (Power)
I'm going to skip some of the basic V2 parts: piston head, cylinder head, trigger assembly/wiring, spring guide
A stronger spring is needed to bring up the FPS.
Due to the use of the V2.5 gear box, standard AEG spring might not perform as well as it should.
It does take springs for the TM PSG-1.
I have not yet tested standard AEG spring vs a TM PSG-1 Spring yet since I don't have any PSG-1 springs.
For regular AEG Spring, personally recommend the Guarder SP170. (170 = 170m/s or about 550fps)
Every spring has what we called "wear down time".
MANY companies advertise their spring's power prior to the wear down time.
However, when you first get the Guarder SP170, it performs more like a SP180.
After the wear down time, it'll perform like a SP170 as it should.
For the Piston,
Matrix CNC piston for PSG-1/L85/SR-25. It's CNC Aluminum.
G&G also made a Nylon one for L85 which is the same for SR-25
The 2nd tooth is pre-cut, well not really, it never existed on the piston.....which is a good thing. It's what you need for correct AoE.
Although G&P did make some, but the production seems to be stopped when they started to make the CNC SR-25.
The Piston has 19, NINETEEN, 十九, dix-neuf, diecinueve teeth, not 14, 15 nor 16, and the body of the piston is longer.
For the cylinder, keep it stock.
CA does make a bore up kit with it, but it's extremely unnecessary.
The stock cylinder has enough air value to propel a BB through a 650mm barrel.
The bore up kit will slow down the FPS due to the increased amount of air that needs to be compressed which will require more energy.
Now to the gears~~~
You HAVE to use V2.5 Sector gears since the piston has 19 teeth.
You can get the CA Super Torque Up Gear set.
Or get a set of CNC gears from RiotSC.
SHS also makes excellent gears for it.
Spur and Bevel gears are standard V2 gears so you can just get any torque up gears for them.
Make sure you do get high quality gears as we are going to pull something like a SP170 spring.
You don't want your gears to strip inside your gear box......it's simply....catastrophic.
Although it does come with metal bushings, I'd still recommend to replace them.
I have the Modify 7mm Steel bushing.
For the Motor, JG Blue Motor, the one with silver/neo magnets; G&P M170/180.
You'll need a battery with a output rate at least 20C.
It is STRONGLY suggested to install a MOSFET.
I HIGHLY recommend the AWS MOSFETs.
No matter what you get, you want a MOSFET that has Active Breaking.
Now we got the power of a sniper rifle, we need the accuracy of one.
A TBB is the most standard upgrade to increase accuracy.
Now you might ask the question: "what diameter should I get?"
It doesn't really matter, but here's the thing.
6.01 is a lot easier to jam.
And you don't want that to happen when your gun is pushing at 550fps.....
Imaging what happens if you plug the cylinder head and pull the trigger.....
What actually matters is the QUALITY of the barrel.
There are reasons why the Prometheus 6.03 TBBs are a lot more popular over many 6.01s.
Here's a list of brand of barrels that I recommend:
Prometheus 6.03
KM TN 6.04
PDI 6.01
Madbull V2 6.03 for low budget
Personally, I'm running the Tanio Koba Twist Barrel.
However, the barrel was designed for guns shooting around 1J.
So it's still in the testing phase.
Now to the Hop-up.
A stable, well built hop up unit is very important.
If you can find a Prometheus Neo hop unit, that's a plus.
If not, get a G&P or KA hop unit
For the bucking, you want a hard bucking.
Using a soft bucking in 400+ fps is really not recommended.
The soft bucking will be prone to break and wear out a lot faster.
I went for the Prometheus hard bucking.
Hop spacer:
This is probably the most important thing for the accuracy.
There are many different types of spacers out there.
If you want something simple, get a concave spacer.
If you want to try, then make a flap-hop or a R-hop.
I'm running R-hop in mine.
You are pretty much set after you've upgrade all of the aforementioned items above.
But here are EVEN MORE MODS that you can do.
Stuffs like adding Sorbo pads, and a couple of Teflon tape mods.
So that's it for my Intro and Upgrade Guide for the Classic Army SR-25.
This is my current setup
Gear Box
AWS Pulse MOSFET
JG Blue Motor with neo mag.
Classic Army Super Torque Up Gear Set for SR-25, since RiotSC is still trying to figure out the production line.
Guarder SP170 Spring, metal spring guide
Modify Steel 7mm bushing
Matrix CNC aluminum piston with unknown brand metal piston head
Stock cylinder, cylinder head, air nozzle
Barrel/Hop
Stock hop unit (ran out of money I have nothing else to say)
G-hop made with some hard rubber and SCS nub (maybe silicon rubber, not sure)
Bucking is currently the stock bucking for testing the G-hop, but have a brand new Prometheus Hard bucking
510mm Tanio Koba Twist Barrel, might have a Prometheus 650mm 6.03 on the way IF I have the money.
Mods
Sorbo pad added
Teflon taped the cylinder head
I stretched out the O-ring first by using the cylinder technic.
Then I put a layer of Teflon tape where the O-ring should go, put the O-ring on, cut the excessive tape.
I might add one more layer on the outside.
Teflon taped the barrel
Used dental floss to tight the bucking
AoE corrected
Special thanks to Soccer77 and Star_folder
And here's my baby
And this is the real JG Blue Neo Magnet motor