Master_Oki_Akai
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The Urban Medic
Posts: 376
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Post by Master_Oki_Akai on Mar 12, 2011 1:22:09 GMT -5
Okay, I've done the research into the items. Did not find a related thread here on MiA. I'm pretty sure this is in the right section. Has anyone gone through and installed one of these yet? So here is what I'm looking to do. I want to take a Madbull JP CNC receiver and equip it with a LiPo battery. Now there are multiple ways to do that I know, but the one that seems to be the most advantageous for my needs is to run it through one of the new-ish LiPo buffer tubes. Now what I know so far is that the crane stock system needs a similar setup. They want you to cut down the tube mount on the lower receiver to make room for the battery and equip it with a cut down washer to allow the wires to run into the receiver. Now personally I do not like the idea of making such permanent modifications to anything, much less a $250 receiver! But my question has to be, who has made this mod and have they found that cutting down the tube mount causes problems with other tubes or stocks? I just got a Magpul CTR stock (milspec version it seems) and I'm already worried about tube compatibility with that. If I could get away with a static stock I probably would but again, is a cut down mounting tube going to cause me trouble with that? An alternative that I could live with is placing a battery in the handguard. But my issue there is that I'll be using (or trying to anyway) a Noveske RIS unit. Now, the tri-panel batteries are supposed to fit in the handguards but RIS units have much less room. I read where some folks have squeezed the tri-panels into their RIS units but I couldn't find one that deals with the Noveske 7.5 unit.PEQs boxes and external battery mounts are not acceptable and having the collapsible stock constantly extended defeats the purpose of having it. Receiver www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=3683LiPo Buffer Tube www.madbullairsoft.com/English/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=274Buffer Tube Battery www.madbullairsoft.com/English/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=270Magpul CTR stock www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=6328Madbull 7.5" RIS www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=4939Tri-panel Battery www.madbullairsoft.com/English/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=268
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Post by glassarchitect on Mar 12, 2011 5:42:01 GMT -5
My M4 is actually wired this way. I custom-cut my buffer tube and receiver to allow a LiPO in the buffer tube. I haven't had any issues with a stock after slightly shortening the buffer tube, and if your tube/receiver are cut right the battery connection wires will fit perfectly. I have it set with a regular buffer tube and it still fits fine after the modification. If you get the tube you posted that's designed for a LiPO it will fit better I'm sure, but it isn't entirely necessary. I'll gladly help you more if you have any questions.
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Post by Tollis on Mar 13, 2011 15:54:40 GMT -5
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Master_Oki_Akai
New Member
Minister of Indoctrination
The Urban Medic
Posts: 376
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Post by Master_Oki_Akai on Mar 14, 2011 13:56:22 GMT -5
Okay, so apparently the tri-panel won't work. There is just no room to maneuver inside the RIS unit. I'm also being told not to cut into the receiver stock pipe, but to cut into the buffer tube instead, which is a bit more agreeable. Then there is just the matter of getting a cut down washer. Maybe a left over from a crane stock or something. I still need to see what people here have done first hand to understand how they manage to fit it all together along with the fuse box and still be able to collapse their stock.
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Post by TheEnd on Mar 14, 2011 23:47:38 GMT -5
It sounds like you already know how to wire a battery in the buffer tube. I'm a little confused about what your question is.
If you are trying to have a lipo in the buffer tube but still have it so that you can collapse the stock, you will need to cut down the buffer tube mount on the receiver and use a short lipo. I haven't seen a lipo set up that allowed the stock to fully collapse but I would imagine the lipo would have to be 1000 mah or less.
I have my CA X-series wired to the buffer tube and it only required one modification to the AEG. The buffer tube washer was a full one so I ground it down into a half cut one. My stock has to be extended because the battery I am using is too long. I have a 6 position buffer tube and I can use the 4th, 5th, and 6th positions only with my battery in. If I trimmed my wires a bit shorter I think I could use the 3rd but nothing lower for sure.
The X-series buffer tube screw threads into the lower receiver, not the spring guide. I don't know if there is a length difference in the two mounting setups. If the spring guide style is shorter than it would allow use of the 3rd position.
I am using an 11.1 20C 1200 mah lipo. It measures just under 5" long, 3/4" wide, and 3/4" tall. It is about 5 3/4" long with the wires plugged in and folded over. It fits just fine in my stock buffer tube, although that lipo one would give more space for the wires which could possibly allow a little more travel.
I also have a CTR stock and I love the buffer tube "cover" it has. It makes it so that I don't have to remove my stock to swap the battery. Just push out the tabs and collapse the stock.
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Master_Oki_Akai
New Member
Minister of Indoctrination
The Urban Medic
Posts: 376
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Post by Master_Oki_Akai on Mar 15, 2011 0:21:46 GMT -5
I'm trying to do it to where i do not have to cut down my receivers stock pipe, don't have to pay much more for a special buffer tube that may not fit my stock and with a battery big enough to at least last a full days worth of play even in the winter. And all that without losing the majority of stock collapsability. I've found videos where folks have done it but it's all been with cutting down the stock pipe and using a buffer lipo.
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Post by TheEnd on Mar 15, 2011 1:17:39 GMT -5
For starters I don't think you will have to cut your buffer tube mount. It would allow for a bigger battery, but it really isn't necessary. If you don't want to cut it you will lose travel in your stock. Sorry for the shitty pictures, but it's 2 am. Here you can see how my setup is. The space between the battery and the silver disk is the thickness of the buffer tube mount. This illustrates why cutting down the buffer mount would give you more space. But you can also see it isn't really necessary to do.
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Post by glassarchitect on Mar 15, 2011 2:19:51 GMT -5
That's pretty much my setup as well. I cut the buffer tube slightly, at slight angle so I had the same amount of stock locking positions but a bit more room to fit the battery connection. I'll post pics tomorrow.
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Master_Oki_Akai
New Member
Minister of Indoctrination
The Urban Medic
Posts: 376
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Post by Master_Oki_Akai on Mar 15, 2011 3:25:21 GMT -5
that is very helpful, abd you say you didn't have to cut or grind anything but the washer right? Could probably get another quarter inch with the precut washer but... But where is your fuse box at now?
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Post by glassarchitect on Mar 15, 2011 9:25:03 GMT -5
I think in my parts bin I have a washer that is designed to fit the wires. And I don't have a fuse.
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Post by Tollis on Mar 15, 2011 17:50:32 GMT -5
The one I linked is a lot shorter than the 12C or 20C firefox batteries, and it gives me a nice happy medium for use in my PTW, I get very snappy trigger response with it.
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Master_Oki_Akai
New Member
Minister of Indoctrination
The Urban Medic
Posts: 376
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Post by Master_Oki_Akai on Mar 15, 2011 20:19:53 GMT -5
how long does the battery last on a full charge?
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Post by TheEnd on Mar 15, 2011 21:42:07 GMT -5
and you say you didn't have to cut or grind anything but the washer right? Correct. Mine was originally front wired, so I flipped the wiring over and had to solder on extensions. You could buy a rear wiring kit if you don't want to solder. But where is your fuse box at now? I always take them out. After having several fuses blow on me in-game I decided to just rip them all out. The one I linked is a lot shorter than the 12C or 20C firefox batteries, and it gives me a nice happy medium for use in my PTW, I get very snappy trigger response with it. In my experience 15C lipos aren't very "fast". Just a hair faster than a good high end 9.6v. If I'm not mistaken the PTW optical trigger will always provide faster trigger response compared to AEG triggers. I would say your snappy response is more from the optical trigger than from the 15C lipo. Then again if you simply want the lipo battery for it's compact size or longer life compared to a regular 9.6 than a 15C is fine. Personally I don't go lower than 20C.
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Post by Tollis on Mar 16, 2011 16:51:07 GMT -5
If you remember the Lipo I had before puffed out it was a 12C firefox, I had tried a multitude of different ones in different guns, the 15C was great for it's compact size and gave a nice trigger response in all my guns, even in my XM110 sass. I also have a 20C and I use it in my M16 which is about 370 FPS and it is giving me about 22 RPS. But for a buffer tube application, the 15C from what I have used and seen, is probably his best bet as it is shorter than the 20C or 12C, but still has a respectable discharge rate. Also, Batteries have a huge impact on a PTW just like any other gun, There was noticeable differences between the 12C, 15C, and 20C and even one of Marshy's 25C batteries. Even though you may get a better trigger response, I don't want to risk burning up my trigger contacts, or the ever more expensive ECU or EL board in a PTW, which I have to replace anyway in mine.
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Post by snafu on Mar 16, 2011 21:01:00 GMT -5
Thanks for the pictures and Advice guys. I plan to go Lipo in my cqbr soon as well. My question is if you go lipo in the buffer tube can you still put in a mosfet?
I have a crane stock on my gun and would like to go Lipo with AB mosfet.
To Oki_Akai. Sorry if this is a thread jack I kinda figured the lipo m4 questions would go nice together. I'm excited to see your M4 when you finish it. Do you plan to have it done by BE4?
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