Post by Tex on May 5, 2008 15:52:01 GMT -5
Newbie F.A.Q.
A little info on myself:
I've been into this wonderful sport of Airsoft since 2003, I dabbled into it a bit before hand with springers and the like for many years prior, but unlike most of the new airsofters, I don't consider that airsoft. I've made a couple thousand posts here and there on various forums but chose to primarily stick with my local Michigan Airsoft forum. Also over the time I started opening up gearboxes, and becoming a little better known for my ability to fix and upgrade replica's. Having spent year repairing and upgrading Airsoft replicas for nearly a decade, I have expanded my knowledge considerably and would like to share it with you. Over these past years honestly, the same new guys come on with the same questions…
"What gun is the best?"
"Which one should I get?"
"Gas or electric?"
"Do I need camouflage to play?"
I could go on and on and on with the frequently asked questions. I have found myself occasionally telling them to Google it or to look in the forums like 5 posts below their own since the question was already answered. And I tried directing them at some of the other FAQ's that I had found, but none of them seemed to do the trick. Thus, this FAQ was created.
Now hopefully this will answer most of those basic questions that I dread to read on the forums. However, I may be wrong in one of my statements and if so, PLEASE, correct me. This is just a compilation of things I have learned over the years both first hand and from others. I don't know everything about Airsoft there is to know, actually there are a few subjects I don't know very much about, but I have a firm understanding of all the basics, which will be included in this FAQ.
Any questions/comments/etc. please don't not hesitate to contact me at cgyarring@gmail.com
Thanks, and enjoy the read.
Caleb
a.k.a. Big Texas
**************Newbie FAQ************
Contents:
Preface – Why everyone should search the forums!!
Section 1 – AEGs
a. Basic Overview
b. High End AEGs
c. Low End (Clone) AEGs
d. AEPs
e. Upgrades
Section 2 – GBBs
a. Basic Overview
b. GBB/NBB
c. Gas Choices
d. Upgrades
Section 3 - Springers
a. Basic Overview
b. Spring Pistols
c. Stock Spring Replicas
d. Upgraded Spring Replicas
Section 4 – Accessories
a. Mock Supressors
b. Reddots
c. Scopes
d. Flashlights/Lasers
e. M203s
Section 5 – Gear
a. Eye Protection
b. Camouflage
c. Vests and Pouches
d. Holsters
e. Slings
f. Boots
g. Gloves
Section 6 – Events
a. How to Find Events
b. What to Bring
c. Event Etiquette
c. What Not to Do
Preface: Why everyone should search the forums![/u][/size]
Possibly the most important thing you can do as a new and veteran player to this sport, is to utilize the search function in your various forums and on Google. Why you ask? Because honestly, the question you have was almost definitely asked before, the answer is out there, and all you have to do is look. We don't mind giving out the answers to obscure or even basic questions, but, when a question has been asked 5 times in the previous month, we tend to get a little aggravated, if not pissy when such a question is asked again.
The answer is out there! I promise you this. And why do I know it? Because, I've answered them all way too often. It may not be on this specific forum, but I can almost guarantee you that it is on another!
Now as time goes on, facts change. CA is no longer a poor choice for replica's as they have upped their QC significantly since the days of their infamous gear stripping. Systema's Red Polycarbonate piston still has major issues. Now, I didn't find these out first hand. I found these out by researching! There is so much information out there, and yes, it may take a while to find it, but you find out so many other things along the way while you read through the forums.
The difficult part, is judging whether or not the person who answered the question is full of crap, or outdated. Outdated is simple, if it's 3years old, there's a likeliness that something has changed, and you should find yourself a more recent answer. And always, try to find the same answer twice, if you do that you are much more likely to get the correct answer, rather than a 13yr old kid spouting off BS. Never trust a retailers website. What is written there is to sell their product, and not always factual.
All in all search; if the first one comes up with nothing, search again! But be less specific and use broader terms such as "kjw airsoft gbb", something quite broad but should give you information about that KJW P226 you saw some guy selling for cheap. And even if your question is not answered, I guarantee you will know a lot more than you did before if you read through all the results that closely match what you're looking for.
With that in mind, remember; search before you ask your question. Not only will others appreciate it, but you will become much more knowledgeable in the process.
Section One – AEG's
a. Basic Overview
What is an AEG? An Automatic Electric Gun, or in laments terms an airsoft replica which is powered by a battery. An AEG consists of a few key parts the battery, the motor, the gearbox, the magazine, the hop up, the barrel and the body. Each piece working together in order for the replica to function properly. Typically, these replicas have the ability to fire on full auto, and are the primary weapon for at least 90% of those who play Airsoft.
How they work – Essentially, the battery sends power to the motor when the trigger is pulled, causing the motor to spin. The gear on the motor, then causes the 3 gears inside the gearbox to spin. These gears then cause the piston to pull back against the spring, drawing air into the cylinder. Once the piston is fully back, the gears release it, and it is pushed forward by the spring. This process quickly releases the air that was sucked into the cylinder through the small air nozzle. This air pushes the bb which is sitting directly in front of the air nozzle through the hop up and out the barrel.
Now, as with everything you can buy these days, there is a wide range of quality and with such, a wide price range. There are the originals, and cheaper Chinese clones of them. Yet, they are still all AEG's, this section will hopefully allow you to determine whether the AEG you are looking at is worth purchasing or not.
b. High End AEG's
The most common high end AEG's on the market as of 2008 include: Tokyo Marui (TM), Classic Army (CA), I Chih Shivan (ICS), Guay & Guay (G&G), VFC, and STAR.
Note: Systema's are not normal AEG's they are in a category of their own as they use a higher lvl of technology in their replica's and are widely known as the best replica's on the market.
These AEGs are your best choice in terms of durability and quality. They are typically around $200 and up for their replicas many of these include metal bodies and all have high quality internals. The Tokyo Marui is hands down the best AEG on the market when it comes to longevity. A stock TM is known to easily last 5 years without problems (granted it is well taken care of), and I even know of several TM's upgraded with metal bushings and an PDI 150% spring that also lasted 5 years of continuous use with no break downs.
The Classic Army is a very popular choice especially for the Armalites which combines a metal body and nice Armalite trades with quality internal parts. ICS is known for it’s split gearbox design on the M4 series which has been hit or miss in terms of quality, getting better in recent times of course. G&G is making great steps towards being a top dog amongst other airsoft companies putting out some really high quality products at affordable prices.
All in all, if you pick up any of the high end AEG’s you will likely be happy with your purchase. Just remember, there are some models that each company puts out that have a lot of issues. Be sure to do your research before making an investment and purchasing any replica!
c. Low End (Clone) AEG's
The most common low end AEG's on the market as of 2008 include: Echo1, JG, Dboys, A&K and Cyma.
These replicas are dubbed “clones” because they typically are a cheaper copy of a more expensive replica out on the market. Normally the company they choose to copy is Tokyo Marui. They are made in factories in which quality control is not as much of a concern, so not all their replicas are the same, some have a little too much grease, others too little, the same with the sizes of o-rings, strength of springs and amount of shims on the gears. What seems like small things that could easily be checked for actually save these companies hundreds of thousands of dollars in the long run. Most of the clones have plastic bodies similar to that of a TM, however, they are much cheaper plastic and more prone to breaking. As for the clones with a metal body, they are made of extremely cheap, thin, pot metal, and you are far better off with the plastic bodied clones.
These replicas do come with a much lower price tag, typically for under $150 you can get a replica, battery, charger and high capacity magazine and get yourself out onto the field to play this awesome sport without spending too much money. However, you do not get the longevity that you would get from purchasing a high end AEG. More often than not I see younger people get into this sport with a clone, and quit just a few months later because their replica took a crap and they don’t feel it’s worth it to try to fix.
So be careful when you purchase a clone, research it thoroughly before you make your choice so that you get the best one on the market. For instance the JG G36c is an amazing clone and entirely worth purchasing if you like the G36 rifle. On the other hand the Dboy’s M4 is a worthless piece of scrap metal.
d. AEPs
AEPs (Automatic Electric Pistols) are a new type of AEG available on the market today. These are similar to AEGs in that they use a battery as the main power source, but differ as they are much smaller, and use 4 gears in the gearbox as opposed to the typical 3.
Since the AEPs are so much smaller than AEGs they lack the FPS of their larger counterparts. A typical stock AEP will fire at about 220-230FPS at a decent rate of fire. They are very nice to use in the winter when gas replicas do not perform very well, and the ability for full auto is a nice touch. The downside to the AEP is that they lack the realism that a GBB does as the slide does not blow back at all.
There are a few upgrades you can do for durability, accuracy and power to your AEP, but the only one that I suggest is to upgrade your battery and barrel, all other internal upgrades have proven moderately useless. Perhaps increasing the spring power to get up to 265FPS is worth it, but on a pistol, range is not a big deal and I would suggest keeping it stock for longer life.
AEPs are very effective in close quarters and a very smart purchase for those who have winter months in which the typical gas blow back pistol is ineffective. I highly suggest AEPs to all airsofters, they are great investments!
e. Upgrades
There are TONS of upgrades available for you AEG. There are some very quick, affordable upgrades, and then there are the extremely expensive ones that involve a complete gearbox rebuild. I will give you a brief overview of them, and divide them into two categories: External and Internal Upgrades.
The most common upgrade is the External upgrade. The most popular of which are silencers and optics. Others include metal bodies, custom stocks, RIS and RAS kits, Vertical Grips PEQ Boxes, etc. The list goes on and on. But the thing they all have in common is that they are outside of the replica and very quick, and easy to do by yourself. You by no means need to have any of these things professionally installed, other than the metal body which some people may have problems with. They external upgrades can be as cheap as $10 and can cost upwards of $1000 for full kits. There’s really a lot you can do to your replica and it is encouraged that you do so to make yours look different from the rest.
Internal Upgrades, my personal favorite, and expertise. The most common internal upgrade is the simple spring upgrade, which will instantly increase the FPS (feet per second) that your replica fires at. It is so common because it increases the range of your replica, something almost everyone wants to do. The down side to this is that it increase the stress on all the internal parts of your gearbox, leading to premature breaking of parts. In order to counter act that, most people add upgraded gears and pistons that are more durable, in order to keep their replica lasting for a long time. For those who have nylon bushings, upgrading to metal ones is a must, it will improve the life of your replica drastically.
For those who wish to upgrade to rather high FPS, many of the stock parts need to be replaced to ensure long life. The gears, piston, piston head and motor are the parts of main concern. The spring guide, cylinder head and gearbox shell are often upgraded as well, but not necessary unless extremely high FPS is being attempted (over 420fps).
The easiest and best upgrade you can get for your AEG is a tight bore barrel. It requires basic disassembly of your replica, and gives you a considerably improved performance. It will give you a slight increase in your FPS, and a considerable improvement to your accuracy. When you do upgrade to a tight bore it is suggested that you start using higher quality bb’s in order to prevent jams which sometimes occur with cheaper bb’s that sometimes have small burs on them.
The other extremely easy upgrade, for an AEG is a higher voltage battery. Now it won’t increase accuracy, durability or power of your replica. But it will increase your rate of fire, and if you get a higher mAh battery, it will make it last for more shots on each charge of the battery.
In closing, leaving a replica in its stock form is usually the best in order to keep it running for a long time. I typically only upgrade once one of my replica’s breaks and needs a part to be replaced, because, hey, if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it!
Section 2 – GBBs
a. Basic Overview
What does GBB even stand for? “Gas Blow Back.” This is normally used when referring to pistols as GBB rifles are far and few between. These gas replica’s are the closest to the real steel counter parts that you can get because of the added realism of blow back that they have.
These are hands down the most common side arms in airsoft and are available for about $40 to $300 or more. Many of these come with metal slides and frames and sound amazingly like their real steel counter parts when the slide is racked.
How they work – The magazine is filled with gas and bb’s and inserted into the mag well. When the hammer is cocked back and the trigger is pulled a burst of gas exits the magazine and flows upward both propelling the bb forward and forcing the slide backwards (this also re-cocks the hammer). The slide then is pushed forward by the recoil spring, loading a bb into the chamber and is again ready to fire. That is the basic mechanics of how they work, and enough to give you a general grasp on how they function.
b. GBB/NBB
While GBBs are the most common of gas replicas, there are also some NBBs or “Non Blow Back” replicas on the market. These include a handful of pistols, shotguns, and long rifles. They use the gas in a much more efficient way simply using it to propel the bb forward and not having to use any to rack a slide back. These often have higher fps and get a lot more shots per magazine fill.
The downside to NBBs in terms of pistols is the lack of realism that they have in comparison to the GBB. They also tend to have a very heavy trigger pull. This is because on a NBB, it does not automatically re-cock the hammer with every shot so your trigger pull ends up cocking the hammer for you. The bolt action sniper rifles and shotguns that use gas however are very realistic, and extremely fun to use! The only downside is that they are not very reliable in cold weather.
c. Gas Choices
There are a few different options on the market for gas to use in order to fuel your GBB or NBB. The most common is Green Gas or Propane and they are the “middle” of the three power levels of gas on the market. You can buy these in ready to use Green Gas cans which have the adaptor on them to fill your magazines along with an added fragrance to cover up the smell of the gas. Propane is simply Green Gas without lubricant or scent added to it. It can be bought in just about any grocery store and at many gas stations. You will need to purchase a propane adapter as well as some 100% silicone in order to use it, but it is cheaper than green gas in the long run. You just need to remember to add silicone when filling up your magazines otherwise the seals will dry out and your magazines will no longer hold gas!
Next, is HFC134a and Duster Gas, these are the lower powered gas on the market. 134a gas can be purchased just like Green Gas in ready to use containers, which Duster gas is simply the compressed air you buy at Best Buy or Meijer for cleaning out computers. You will need an adapter in order to use the Duster Gas in an airsoft replica, silicone is also suggested!
Next, is red gas. It is rarely used and is the highest powered gas on the market. Very few GBB replica’s are reinforced enough to use it, and it is primarily used in sniper rifles and other NBB platforms.
The last, is C02, the same stuff used by paintballers. These are becoming slightly more popular because of how affordable the C02 NBB pistols are on the market. Unlike the other gases C02 can only be used in specific replicas because of how it is used in the magazines. A small non-reusable cartridge filled with C02 is inserted into the magazine and once the gas is depleted, the cartridge is thrown away. C02 is more powerful than Green Gas and Propane, yet still less powerful than Red gas.
d. Upgrades
There are a few common upgrades to the typical GBB. These include, tight bore barrels, metal frames and slides, as well as outer barrel and high-flow valves. Upgraded recoil and hammer springs as well as various other accessories like grips, mag wells, sights, silencers, tac lights. There are a large amount of options out there, and with each of the performance upgrades comes a side effect. For instance, high-flow valves increase the FPS output of your replica, but, use a lot more gas per shot. Metal slides will need an upgraded recoil spring, otherwise the recoil may become sluggish if it was intended to be used with a plastic slide.
Adding externals like a tactical light, and grips and the like will not alter the performance and once more are extremely suggested in order to make your replica custom and unique!
A little info on myself:
I've been into this wonderful sport of Airsoft since 2003, I dabbled into it a bit before hand with springers and the like for many years prior, but unlike most of the new airsofters, I don't consider that airsoft. I've made a couple thousand posts here and there on various forums but chose to primarily stick with my local Michigan Airsoft forum. Also over the time I started opening up gearboxes, and becoming a little better known for my ability to fix and upgrade replica's. Having spent year repairing and upgrading Airsoft replicas for nearly a decade, I have expanded my knowledge considerably and would like to share it with you. Over these past years honestly, the same new guys come on with the same questions…
"What gun is the best?"
"Which one should I get?"
"Gas or electric?"
"Do I need camouflage to play?"
I could go on and on and on with the frequently asked questions. I have found myself occasionally telling them to Google it or to look in the forums like 5 posts below their own since the question was already answered. And I tried directing them at some of the other FAQ's that I had found, but none of them seemed to do the trick. Thus, this FAQ was created.
Now hopefully this will answer most of those basic questions that I dread to read on the forums. However, I may be wrong in one of my statements and if so, PLEASE, correct me. This is just a compilation of things I have learned over the years both first hand and from others. I don't know everything about Airsoft there is to know, actually there are a few subjects I don't know very much about, but I have a firm understanding of all the basics, which will be included in this FAQ.
Any questions/comments/etc. please don't not hesitate to contact me at cgyarring@gmail.com
Thanks, and enjoy the read.
Caleb
a.k.a. Big Texas
**************Newbie FAQ************
Contents:
Preface – Why everyone should search the forums!!
Section 1 – AEGs
a. Basic Overview
b. High End AEGs
c. Low End (Clone) AEGs
d. AEPs
e. Upgrades
Section 2 – GBBs
a. Basic Overview
b. GBB/NBB
c. Gas Choices
d. Upgrades
Section 3 - Springers
a. Basic Overview
b. Spring Pistols
c. Stock Spring Replicas
d. Upgraded Spring Replicas
Section 4 – Accessories
a. Mock Supressors
b. Reddots
c. Scopes
d. Flashlights/Lasers
e. M203s
Section 5 – Gear
a. Eye Protection
b. Camouflage
c. Vests and Pouches
d. Holsters
e. Slings
f. Boots
g. Gloves
Section 6 – Events
a. How to Find Events
b. What to Bring
c. Event Etiquette
c. What Not to Do
Preface: Why everyone should search the forums![/u][/size]
Possibly the most important thing you can do as a new and veteran player to this sport, is to utilize the search function in your various forums and on Google. Why you ask? Because honestly, the question you have was almost definitely asked before, the answer is out there, and all you have to do is look. We don't mind giving out the answers to obscure or even basic questions, but, when a question has been asked 5 times in the previous month, we tend to get a little aggravated, if not pissy when such a question is asked again.
The answer is out there! I promise you this. And why do I know it? Because, I've answered them all way too often. It may not be on this specific forum, but I can almost guarantee you that it is on another!
Now as time goes on, facts change. CA is no longer a poor choice for replica's as they have upped their QC significantly since the days of their infamous gear stripping. Systema's Red Polycarbonate piston still has major issues. Now, I didn't find these out first hand. I found these out by researching! There is so much information out there, and yes, it may take a while to find it, but you find out so many other things along the way while you read through the forums.
The difficult part, is judging whether or not the person who answered the question is full of crap, or outdated. Outdated is simple, if it's 3years old, there's a likeliness that something has changed, and you should find yourself a more recent answer. And always, try to find the same answer twice, if you do that you are much more likely to get the correct answer, rather than a 13yr old kid spouting off BS. Never trust a retailers website. What is written there is to sell their product, and not always factual.
All in all search; if the first one comes up with nothing, search again! But be less specific and use broader terms such as "kjw airsoft gbb", something quite broad but should give you information about that KJW P226 you saw some guy selling for cheap. And even if your question is not answered, I guarantee you will know a lot more than you did before if you read through all the results that closely match what you're looking for.
With that in mind, remember; search before you ask your question. Not only will others appreciate it, but you will become much more knowledgeable in the process.
Section One – AEG's
a. Basic Overview
What is an AEG? An Automatic Electric Gun, or in laments terms an airsoft replica which is powered by a battery. An AEG consists of a few key parts the battery, the motor, the gearbox, the magazine, the hop up, the barrel and the body. Each piece working together in order for the replica to function properly. Typically, these replicas have the ability to fire on full auto, and are the primary weapon for at least 90% of those who play Airsoft.
How they work – Essentially, the battery sends power to the motor when the trigger is pulled, causing the motor to spin. The gear on the motor, then causes the 3 gears inside the gearbox to spin. These gears then cause the piston to pull back against the spring, drawing air into the cylinder. Once the piston is fully back, the gears release it, and it is pushed forward by the spring. This process quickly releases the air that was sucked into the cylinder through the small air nozzle. This air pushes the bb which is sitting directly in front of the air nozzle through the hop up and out the barrel.
Now, as with everything you can buy these days, there is a wide range of quality and with such, a wide price range. There are the originals, and cheaper Chinese clones of them. Yet, they are still all AEG's, this section will hopefully allow you to determine whether the AEG you are looking at is worth purchasing or not.
b. High End AEG's
The most common high end AEG's on the market as of 2008 include: Tokyo Marui (TM), Classic Army (CA), I Chih Shivan (ICS), Guay & Guay (G&G), VFC, and STAR.
Note: Systema's are not normal AEG's they are in a category of their own as they use a higher lvl of technology in their replica's and are widely known as the best replica's on the market.
These AEGs are your best choice in terms of durability and quality. They are typically around $200 and up for their replicas many of these include metal bodies and all have high quality internals. The Tokyo Marui is hands down the best AEG on the market when it comes to longevity. A stock TM is known to easily last 5 years without problems (granted it is well taken care of), and I even know of several TM's upgraded with metal bushings and an PDI 150% spring that also lasted 5 years of continuous use with no break downs.
The Classic Army is a very popular choice especially for the Armalites which combines a metal body and nice Armalite trades with quality internal parts. ICS is known for it’s split gearbox design on the M4 series which has been hit or miss in terms of quality, getting better in recent times of course. G&G is making great steps towards being a top dog amongst other airsoft companies putting out some really high quality products at affordable prices.
All in all, if you pick up any of the high end AEG’s you will likely be happy with your purchase. Just remember, there are some models that each company puts out that have a lot of issues. Be sure to do your research before making an investment and purchasing any replica!
c. Low End (Clone) AEG's
The most common low end AEG's on the market as of 2008 include: Echo1, JG, Dboys, A&K and Cyma.
These replicas are dubbed “clones” because they typically are a cheaper copy of a more expensive replica out on the market. Normally the company they choose to copy is Tokyo Marui. They are made in factories in which quality control is not as much of a concern, so not all their replicas are the same, some have a little too much grease, others too little, the same with the sizes of o-rings, strength of springs and amount of shims on the gears. What seems like small things that could easily be checked for actually save these companies hundreds of thousands of dollars in the long run. Most of the clones have plastic bodies similar to that of a TM, however, they are much cheaper plastic and more prone to breaking. As for the clones with a metal body, they are made of extremely cheap, thin, pot metal, and you are far better off with the plastic bodied clones.
These replicas do come with a much lower price tag, typically for under $150 you can get a replica, battery, charger and high capacity magazine and get yourself out onto the field to play this awesome sport without spending too much money. However, you do not get the longevity that you would get from purchasing a high end AEG. More often than not I see younger people get into this sport with a clone, and quit just a few months later because their replica took a crap and they don’t feel it’s worth it to try to fix.
So be careful when you purchase a clone, research it thoroughly before you make your choice so that you get the best one on the market. For instance the JG G36c is an amazing clone and entirely worth purchasing if you like the G36 rifle. On the other hand the Dboy’s M4 is a worthless piece of scrap metal.
d. AEPs
AEPs (Automatic Electric Pistols) are a new type of AEG available on the market today. These are similar to AEGs in that they use a battery as the main power source, but differ as they are much smaller, and use 4 gears in the gearbox as opposed to the typical 3.
Since the AEPs are so much smaller than AEGs they lack the FPS of their larger counterparts. A typical stock AEP will fire at about 220-230FPS at a decent rate of fire. They are very nice to use in the winter when gas replicas do not perform very well, and the ability for full auto is a nice touch. The downside to the AEP is that they lack the realism that a GBB does as the slide does not blow back at all.
There are a few upgrades you can do for durability, accuracy and power to your AEP, but the only one that I suggest is to upgrade your battery and barrel, all other internal upgrades have proven moderately useless. Perhaps increasing the spring power to get up to 265FPS is worth it, but on a pistol, range is not a big deal and I would suggest keeping it stock for longer life.
AEPs are very effective in close quarters and a very smart purchase for those who have winter months in which the typical gas blow back pistol is ineffective. I highly suggest AEPs to all airsofters, they are great investments!
e. Upgrades
There are TONS of upgrades available for you AEG. There are some very quick, affordable upgrades, and then there are the extremely expensive ones that involve a complete gearbox rebuild. I will give you a brief overview of them, and divide them into two categories: External and Internal Upgrades.
The most common upgrade is the External upgrade. The most popular of which are silencers and optics. Others include metal bodies, custom stocks, RIS and RAS kits, Vertical Grips PEQ Boxes, etc. The list goes on and on. But the thing they all have in common is that they are outside of the replica and very quick, and easy to do by yourself. You by no means need to have any of these things professionally installed, other than the metal body which some people may have problems with. They external upgrades can be as cheap as $10 and can cost upwards of $1000 for full kits. There’s really a lot you can do to your replica and it is encouraged that you do so to make yours look different from the rest.
Internal Upgrades, my personal favorite, and expertise. The most common internal upgrade is the simple spring upgrade, which will instantly increase the FPS (feet per second) that your replica fires at. It is so common because it increases the range of your replica, something almost everyone wants to do. The down side to this is that it increase the stress on all the internal parts of your gearbox, leading to premature breaking of parts. In order to counter act that, most people add upgraded gears and pistons that are more durable, in order to keep their replica lasting for a long time. For those who have nylon bushings, upgrading to metal ones is a must, it will improve the life of your replica drastically.
For those who wish to upgrade to rather high FPS, many of the stock parts need to be replaced to ensure long life. The gears, piston, piston head and motor are the parts of main concern. The spring guide, cylinder head and gearbox shell are often upgraded as well, but not necessary unless extremely high FPS is being attempted (over 420fps).
The easiest and best upgrade you can get for your AEG is a tight bore barrel. It requires basic disassembly of your replica, and gives you a considerably improved performance. It will give you a slight increase in your FPS, and a considerable improvement to your accuracy. When you do upgrade to a tight bore it is suggested that you start using higher quality bb’s in order to prevent jams which sometimes occur with cheaper bb’s that sometimes have small burs on them.
The other extremely easy upgrade, for an AEG is a higher voltage battery. Now it won’t increase accuracy, durability or power of your replica. But it will increase your rate of fire, and if you get a higher mAh battery, it will make it last for more shots on each charge of the battery.
In closing, leaving a replica in its stock form is usually the best in order to keep it running for a long time. I typically only upgrade once one of my replica’s breaks and needs a part to be replaced, because, hey, if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it!
Section 2 – GBBs
a. Basic Overview
What does GBB even stand for? “Gas Blow Back.” This is normally used when referring to pistols as GBB rifles are far and few between. These gas replica’s are the closest to the real steel counter parts that you can get because of the added realism of blow back that they have.
These are hands down the most common side arms in airsoft and are available for about $40 to $300 or more. Many of these come with metal slides and frames and sound amazingly like their real steel counter parts when the slide is racked.
How they work – The magazine is filled with gas and bb’s and inserted into the mag well. When the hammer is cocked back and the trigger is pulled a burst of gas exits the magazine and flows upward both propelling the bb forward and forcing the slide backwards (this also re-cocks the hammer). The slide then is pushed forward by the recoil spring, loading a bb into the chamber and is again ready to fire. That is the basic mechanics of how they work, and enough to give you a general grasp on how they function.
b. GBB/NBB
While GBBs are the most common of gas replicas, there are also some NBBs or “Non Blow Back” replicas on the market. These include a handful of pistols, shotguns, and long rifles. They use the gas in a much more efficient way simply using it to propel the bb forward and not having to use any to rack a slide back. These often have higher fps and get a lot more shots per magazine fill.
The downside to NBBs in terms of pistols is the lack of realism that they have in comparison to the GBB. They also tend to have a very heavy trigger pull. This is because on a NBB, it does not automatically re-cock the hammer with every shot so your trigger pull ends up cocking the hammer for you. The bolt action sniper rifles and shotguns that use gas however are very realistic, and extremely fun to use! The only downside is that they are not very reliable in cold weather.
c. Gas Choices
There are a few different options on the market for gas to use in order to fuel your GBB or NBB. The most common is Green Gas or Propane and they are the “middle” of the three power levels of gas on the market. You can buy these in ready to use Green Gas cans which have the adaptor on them to fill your magazines along with an added fragrance to cover up the smell of the gas. Propane is simply Green Gas without lubricant or scent added to it. It can be bought in just about any grocery store and at many gas stations. You will need to purchase a propane adapter as well as some 100% silicone in order to use it, but it is cheaper than green gas in the long run. You just need to remember to add silicone when filling up your magazines otherwise the seals will dry out and your magazines will no longer hold gas!
Next, is HFC134a and Duster Gas, these are the lower powered gas on the market. 134a gas can be purchased just like Green Gas in ready to use containers, which Duster gas is simply the compressed air you buy at Best Buy or Meijer for cleaning out computers. You will need an adapter in order to use the Duster Gas in an airsoft replica, silicone is also suggested!
Next, is red gas. It is rarely used and is the highest powered gas on the market. Very few GBB replica’s are reinforced enough to use it, and it is primarily used in sniper rifles and other NBB platforms.
The last, is C02, the same stuff used by paintballers. These are becoming slightly more popular because of how affordable the C02 NBB pistols are on the market. Unlike the other gases C02 can only be used in specific replicas because of how it is used in the magazines. A small non-reusable cartridge filled with C02 is inserted into the magazine and once the gas is depleted, the cartridge is thrown away. C02 is more powerful than Green Gas and Propane, yet still less powerful than Red gas.
d. Upgrades
There are a few common upgrades to the typical GBB. These include, tight bore barrels, metal frames and slides, as well as outer barrel and high-flow valves. Upgraded recoil and hammer springs as well as various other accessories like grips, mag wells, sights, silencers, tac lights. There are a large amount of options out there, and with each of the performance upgrades comes a side effect. For instance, high-flow valves increase the FPS output of your replica, but, use a lot more gas per shot. Metal slides will need an upgraded recoil spring, otherwise the recoil may become sluggish if it was intended to be used with a plastic slide.
Adding externals like a tactical light, and grips and the like will not alter the performance and once more are extremely suggested in order to make your replica custom and unique!