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Post by Jacko on Jan 5, 2004 2:19:11 GMT -5
Q = One of the GK guys. I'm using the Guarder because I stripped the hole of the top screw of the mounting block when installing my metal upper.
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Post by sUpEr K-@Z2-K on Jan 5, 2004 12:38:11 GMT -5
carefull with the piston head when you join the upper and lower receiver. The hopup likes to push against it (it was probably a good thing i broke the piston and not the custom hurricane hop-up)
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Mite
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Post by Mite on Jan 13, 2004 12:31:46 GMT -5
<Sigh>
Cold temperatures, plastic, and running around in icy terrain are apparently not a good mix. I have successfully broken both rear/stock end tabs/ears on my upper receiver. So... to that end I am trying to figure out which metal body I should acquire.
The quality of the trades is the least of my concerns. The durability of construction, and toughness are my primary concerns. So, anyone have opinions on which bodies are the least prone to failures?
Mite
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Post by frostee on Jan 13, 2004 12:55:07 GMT -5
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Mite
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I'm a pretty little girl
I am a professional pyro. No, seriously, I am.
Posts: 242
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Post by Mite on Jan 13, 2004 13:01:23 GMT -5
Thanks Frostee, I was referring to the M4 style receiver for an SR-16.
What makes the DTP body the best?
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Post by frostee on Jan 13, 2004 13:25:47 GMT -5
Best for durability because of the extra material thickness. The material is the same as most metal bodies (pot metal), but the added wall thickness gives the DTP body an edge. And, since the gearbox slides horizontally into the upper receiver, the tabs do not receive as much stress. The gearbox is really attached to the upper receiver, which in turn is secured to the lower by the grip. It seems complicated, but what it means is that the tabs can be broken and the receiver halves will not come apart.
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Snoopy
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Post by Snoopy on Jan 13, 2004 14:07:14 GMT -5
If you still have all of the pieces to your tabs and don't mind if they look pretty, it is possible to repair them.
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Mite
New Member
I'm a pretty little girl
I am a professional pyro. No, seriously, I am.
Posts: 242
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Post by Mite on Jan 13, 2004 14:21:42 GMT -5
Frostee - Thanks again, It sounds like the DTP body would be quite a bit more robust. Is installation difficult/problematic?
Selnaric - I do have all the pieces (with the exception of the pin which fell onto the snow covered ground and sunk in)
Feel free to describe a repair proceedure.
Mite
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Snoopy
New Member
"Blast 'em!"
Ceramic tiles! Soylent grey is ceramic tiles!
Posts: 275
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Post by Snoopy on Jan 13, 2004 17:17:11 GMT -5
The process is in the tech questions area. If you have any problems feel free to PM me.
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Post by sUpEr K-@Z2-K on Jan 17, 2004 2:44:39 GMT -5
well jacko did you ever get around to putting on your body?
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Post by AlexLarsen on Jan 17, 2004 14:03:04 GMT -5
Is there a metal body set that has Diemco marking on it?
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Post by Jacko on Jan 17, 2004 22:53:54 GMT -5
Kaz, Viking installed the metal body, but I need to talk to him and get my tools back before I'm gonna comment on this thing. Thanks for your patience, I appreciate it. That being said, the Guarder metal outer barrel seems to be sturdy as hell. That'll come later too.
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Mite
New Member
I'm a pretty little girl
I am a professional pyro. No, seriously, I am.
Posts: 242
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Post by Mite on Jan 19, 2004 17:25:55 GMT -5
So I am almost done my metal body research. I checked out the DTP body a bit, but I don't think it's for me. I've got it down to HurricanE or G&G.
This is for an SR-16.
Anyone want to offer an opinion?
Mite
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Post by Jacko on Jan 23, 2004 18:33:49 GMT -5
My review has been updated! I'll probably add more when I get some time to play with this gun and range it in.
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Post by sharpshooter123 on Jan 23, 2004 21:38:45 GMT -5
Mite don't worry I did the same thing in 75 degree weather. In the mean time while you don't have a metal body, put a zip tie in there and also in front of the flip up rear site in one of those grooves. This works perfectly other then you have to have new ones if you open your gun.
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