20 rps combat machine?

I have a combat machine shooting 20rps with stock motor and a 9.6v. That being said, I put about $90 - $100 of internals into it.

Shim, lube/grease, correct AOE (use Sorbo for this), Swiss cheese the piston, get SHS 13:1 gears (possibly keep the G&G bevel gear). Good to go.

lmgtfy.com/?q=how+to+correct+AOE+with+sorbothane

www.sqairsoft.com/how-to-correct-your-aoe.html

lmgtfy.com/?q=how+to+swiss+cheese+a+piston

www.youtube.com/watch?v=MEVgmzVGLaI

Sorbothane is a rubber-like material that absorbs shock and dampers vibrations. It is typically applied to the cylinder head to reduce impact on the front of the gearbox and correct the angle of engagement (AOE). The angle of engagement is the angle at which the sector gear engages the piston. Out of the box, without correcting the AOE, force is applied both "up" and "back" (for lack of better words) on the piston, which eventually causes the back end near the pickup tooth to be ripped off. Correcting the AOE allows the sector gear to engage the piston at a 90 degree angle and pull it straight back. When you do this, you'll notice that the sector gear comes in contact with the 2nd and sometimes 3rd teeth before it reaches the pickup tooth. To fix this, you need to remove the 2nd tooth of the piston, and also usually 1/3-1/2 of the 3rd tooth.

Generally speaking, you want to lube the gears and piston rails, anywhere where there is going to be friction that your o-rings or other rubber parts won't come in contact with. Keep it away from your compression parts (cylinder, o-rings, nozzle) as best you can. White lithium is commonly used, but people will always debate over which is best. Your local auto parts store should have white lithium grease for sale (I use the Permatex brand). Some people use a little dielectric grease on the compression parts but I find this unnecessary. Put your piston head o-ring over a cylinder and heat it up to stretch it, then give all of your o-rings a little bit of silicone oil before putting everything back together.

13:1 refers to the ratio of the gearset. The lower the ratio, the faster the gears are. Standard gearsets are typically 18:1. A 16:1 set would give slightly better trigger response and rate of fire than a stock set. The 13:1 set would be slightly faster than the 16:1, and a 10:1 would be even faster still. The downside to faster gears is that your motor has less time to accelerate and provide enough torque to pull the spring back; although this is becoming more and more of a non-issue thanks to neo-magnet motors.

www.airsoftmechanics.com/home/content/view/17/26/1/2/

The idea behind swiss cheesing the piston is to make it as light as possible so that the spring can push it forward quicker. This boosts your rate of fire ceiling by preventing pre-engagement. Some people do it before they even come close to their rate of fire ceiling in an attempt to boost their rate of fire. Personally, I only use it for preventing pre-engagement, because there are far easier ways to increase rate of fire. You'll find people that advocate it for both uses, it's your choice to make.

I wasn't, though I did exaggerate a bit. I miss the days when we responded to each other with posts that at least maxed out twitter's character limit. It's not spoon feeding somebody to explain the functionality of the parts and mods you're suggesting, especially when the last upgrade guide written here is about a decade out of date. Put the information into text on this board and then we can pretend like everybody should know it. Until then, elaborate a little.